April 24

Day 25 Sugarloaf Gap to Spivey Gap (20.1 miles) 331.6 miles total

Woke up this AM to no rain. Think it rained between 3-4 inches yesterday.

Little bit of sunshine today! Decided to go big distance today and hitch ride to Erwin, TN where I can get room and dry everything out.

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Still following NC/TN border. Hiked in NC all day…I think. Crossed under I-26 and saw welcome to TN sign about 50 yds from me. Also staying in TN tonight.

I think these balds are really cool. I try to envision cattle grazing. Below is Big Bald (elev 5516 ft). Was pretty windy and chilly walking across there.

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I got to Spivey Gap about 4PM. Hwy 19 runs right there so I was hoping to hitch ride the 15 miles to Erwin.

When I got there, 3 thru-hikers were waiting alongside road for shuttle to hostel in opposite direction I’m heading. They told me 2 cars had passed by in 45 minutes they’d been there. Hitching not looking good!

Had phone number for shuttle service but not enough signal to get call through. Starting to get nervous. Don’t want to spend night in tent!

Tried texting and it went through. Nice guy who’s hiked trail twice gave me ride. Giving me a ride back out to same spot in AM.

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All comfy at Super 8. Will go out tomorrow and finish last 11 miles to Erwin and then stay again tomorrow night. Living large!

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Happy trails!

April 23

Day 24 Sugarloaf Gap Zero Day

It’s rained for 26 hrs straight and still going. I’ve been hunkered down in my tent all day. This sucks!

When I woke up this AM had cell service and was able to get weather forecast. 100% chance of rain most of today (they were right!).

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Rain chance for Monday and Tuesday is in the 50 – 70% range. New plan is to try to make about 7 miles to a road where I should be able to get into Erwin, TN.

Tent has held up well. No rain inside but everything still getting pretty damp. There is barely room for my stuff, along with myself, inside tent when it rains like this. Pretty tight quarters for 36 hrs straight.

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Wish me luck in AM.

Happy trails!

April 22

Day 23 Little Laurel Shelter to Sugarloaf Gap (18.5 miles) 311.5 total miles

Thunder, lightning, and rain last night. Rain for about 3 hours of hike today. Started raining right as I stopped to set up tent tonight and still raining now.  

Pretty sure it’s rained 6 straight days and I’ve been hiking 5 of them. If you are having drought issues in your area, give me a call and I’ll come hike through. Gotta just about have the issue here in SE about fixed!
If you’re able to zoom this pic in, you will see the first flat stretch of farm land I’ve seen. Just wish I was hiking down there.


This has been my toughest day of hiking yet. Didn’t have much pep in my step this AM and the hike was much more difficult than topography map led me to assume. Then add some rain and slippery surfaces.


Below is my attempt at a panoramic shot. Might have needed an assist from my friend, Legs, for this one!


As I mentioned earlier, the terrain today was much more difficult than I had guessed. Not so much because of up and down hills but because of having to scramble over rocks…in the rain and wet. Had to climb down into that little gully and then straight up other side.


Slipped and fell on my butt twice today. No injuries, thankfully.


Found a place to camp just as rain started this evening. Pretty cold. Summer sausage, peanut butter, and a Snickers bar for dinner. Living large!

Hope for better day tomorrow.

Happy trails!

April 21

Day 22 Hot Springs, NC to Little Laurel Shelter (19.6 miles) 293.0 total miles

Kind of tough getting up and going this AM but eventually got hiking about 9:30 AM. 
Completed my fifth half mile walk to town from chalet. There were also 5 walks from to chalet from town. It’s not that it’s a hard walk, it’s just the principle of it. I don’t need any extra walking!

Hot Springs is nestled along the banks of the French Broad River. In about an hour I’ll be on top of that Mtn across river.


Got to walk a ways right along river. Several tents with people who camped along river instead of staying in town.


Lovers Leap Rock. Why do they always talk about jumping/leaping from these rock outcroppings??


A dammed up pond that I’m guessing was used for cattle at some point. There is area near that was cleared of trees and maybe used for grazing.


Spring Mtn Shelter (below) is one of smallest shelters I’ve seen. Sleeps 5. Most are 10 – 12.


Rained pretty steady for 3 hrs in afternoon. That’s 4 straight hiking days with some rain if you’re keeping track at home.  

Tented by Little Laurel Shelter. Very appropriate as we live on Laurel Lane in a little house!

Happy trails!

April 20

Day 21 Hot Springs, NC Zero Day

A day of rest is a good thing. Lolled around most of AM. Chalet would be perfect if had TV and was not a half mile walk to town.

Below is a hiker room when they come in from hiking in rain and need to dry stuff out.

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Nice, peaceful setting from the deck of chalet. Truthfully, I’d exchange view for ESPN and CNBC!

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Tiny house…big grill.

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This is Alex (“Big Foot”). He is the U of NH guy I met day 1 and have seen a few other times. I hadn’t seen him for more than a week and assumed he was far ahead of me. He hiked through Smokies with brother so slowed him down. He is quite surprised some “old guy” is keeping pace. Tortoise and the hare!

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Ready to hit it in the AM. Next destination is Erwin, TN (about 70 miles).

Happy trails!

April 19

Day 20 Two Streams to Hot Springs, NC (15.7 miles) 273.4 total miles

Light rain most of last night. Tent staying dry inside. Happy about that.

Another foggy, windy, rainy day to hike in. They say the views from the top of some of these balds is fantastic. I wouldn’t know! Below is Walnut Mtn.

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Knee that I tweaked yesterday feels pretty good. Treated it with a little extra Vitamin I (ibuprofen). It’s downhill most of way to Hot Springs so making good time but beats the crap out of your lower body.

Lots of fog in lower elevations as I’m descending.

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Hot Springs is definitely a hiker town. AT goes right through middle of town. That is the AT symbol on sidewalk at bottom of pic. Very small town with a 2 block business district.

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Had a 12 oz burger at Smoky Mtn Diner as soon as I got to town (about 2PM). Found out then that may be challenging to get a room as there is a hiking festival here Friday and Saturday.

Ended up getting a chalet about half mile from town center. Lodging is very nice but doesn’t have one of those television things I’ve heard so much about.

Taking a zero day tomorrow. Feet and knee need the rest.

Happy trails!

April 18

Day 19 Pigeon River to Two Streams (19 miles) 257.7 miles total

Light rain on and off through night. Stayed dry inside tent. Yea! Warmest night camping so far. Guessing because of low elevation (1698 ft).

Little stream I camped by last night turns into real river down the hill a piece!

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Walked right under I-40 this AM.

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Standing Bear Farm is a very eclectic hiker/hippy hostel/commune. Only a couple hundred yards off trail so thought I’d check it out. After all, they do have restrooms and resupply food. Have tiny store (maybe 10′ x 10′) with pretty much anything a hiker could want. Got a Coke, 2 bagels, and 2 candy bars for $4. It’s on the honor system!

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If I’d have known I could rent this treehouse, I may have timed my passage by better.

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Foggy and rainy almost all day.

A grassy bald is an area at top of mountain that years ago was cleared of trees to graze cattle. This is the grassy bald on Snowbird Mtn. I’m guessing it’s 40 acres of bald. Looks and feels a bit like Ireland today.

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When ET phoned home, I’m pretty sure this is who he called! Freaky looking thing that hums. Said to be an FAA tower. Things that make you go hmm.

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Below is Max Patch Bald. Supposedly incredible views but so foggy I couldn’t see more than 100 yds.

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Rain makes 2 types of mud on trail, a slimy, sink in mud and a looks firm but slippery as grease mud.

Just as I was patting myself on the back for not taking a fall as yet, the greasy mud got me. Sit on floor at home with both legs extended on floor in front of you. Take your right leg and put heel under your butt with knee still facing forward. Felt like my ligaments in knee were going to pop for the few seconds it took to extricate myself from that position.

All seems to be good. Hiked 4 miles after that. Hopefully fine in AM because will be zero day in Hot Springs, NC after 15.7 miles tomorrow.

Happy trails!

April 17

Day 18 Pecks Corner Shelter to Pigeon River (21.7 miles) 238.7 total miles

Tented last night next to “Butter”. Hiked SOBO (ME to GA) couple of years ago. Now going NOBO! He’s about mid 60’s. Told him I definitely wouldn’t be doing the both ways thing!

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Hike today was mostly downhill leaving the Smokies. Rained pretty good for about an hour and half this AM and poured for half hour mid-afternoon.

Don’t know name of lake in distance below. Maybe Mrs. Johnson’s 6th grade class in Groton, SD can figure it out. Probably west and about 10 miles north of Gatlinburg, TN. I’m guessing part of TN Valley Authority.

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Green leaves on trees! Big difference at lower elevation (1700 ft).

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Got 2 miles outside GSMNP when thunder decided I should look for campsite. Got room with river view. Also spent 15 minutes with my feet soaking in river. Felt really good after long hike.

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34.7 miles to Hot Springs, NC for some R&R. Much deserved, if I may add! Supposed to be on and off rain for next 2 days. Hoping it’s mostly off!

Happy trails!

April 16

Day 17 Double Spring Gap Shelter to Pecks Corner Shelter (20.7 miles) 217.1 total miles

Double Spring Shelter has 2 springs. One in NC and other in TN. The trail follows the border for a long way.

Steep hike in fog and wind to Clingman’s Dome this AM. At elevation of 6667 feet, this is the highest point on Appalachian Trail. Too foggy, unfortunately, to see anything from up there.

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There is a parking area with gift shop one half mile from Done and trail. I was excited to be able to walk down there to get a candy bar, coke, and use restroom. Was there at 9:30. Doesn’t open until 10. Long walk back up hill!

Yesterday’s changing forest floor (grass, flowers) was on south side of mtn. Today, on north side, it is extremely mossy. Moss growing on everything, including other moss.

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Next 2 pics are of root systems of large trees that have tipped over. I can guarantee you they make sound waves when they fall, even if no one is here. Notice large boulder entwined in roots of second tree.

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I had seen in guide book that I was coming up on 2 “wild hog containment bridges”. There is an area with lots of native species that has been fenced off to protect from wild hogs. Only fence I’ve seen. The bridges are for hikers to get across fence. Walk up one side, down the other.

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Finished first half of day’s hike at Newfound Gap. It’s off a major highway to Gatlinburg, TN and has a large parking area for day hikers. As soon as I reach lot I hear “Thru-hiker, want some food.” 3 different people providing trail magic together. It was like Easter buffet. Pulled pork sandwiches, deviled eggs, salad, candy, etc. One of the providers was Yard Dart who I had also seen just before Fontana.

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Notice last line on sign. Someone thinks they’re really funny!

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First day of 20+ miles. I’m beat.

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April 15

Day 16 Spence Field Shelter to Double Spring Gap Shelter (11.5 miles) 196.4 total miles.

Cool, crisp AM. Steep climb up out of shelter area to start day. The AT runs along NC/TN border for most of Great Smoky Mtn National Park.  

I believe peak below is TN because it’s name is Rocky Top. “Good ol’ Rocky Top. Rocky Top, Tennessee.” First photo is view from Rocky Top. Second is Rocky Top.



One seasonal change over last 2 days. There is now some green and tiny white, purple, and yellow flowers on forest floor. Until now has been floor of dead leaves. Also starting to notice more bugs at same time.


These vast amounts of open space along the east coast surprise and amaze me.


In the Smokies you have to stay in the area of a shelter so you have to plan your day to end at a shelter. Was hoping to get over Clingman’s Dome today but would have been getting to next shelter at dusk. Decided to hole up here and hit Clingman’s early tomorrow AM.

Happy Easter!