Zarautz and San Sebastián

We spent two days in Zarautz, another of Spain’s premier surf towns.

Zarautz Beach was voted the best beach in Spain for 2024 by readers of Condé Nast Traveler. The beachfront promenade is lined with bars, and restaurants, giving the beach a lively atmosphere from morning until late at night.

The scenery wasn’t bad, either. The beach stretches for miles, with green hills and rugged coastline providing a spectacular backdrop.

Zarautz sits in the heart of Basque Country, where the local language, Euskara, bears little resemblance to Spanish. It made translating menus a bit more challenging.

The highlight of our stay came during a late-night stop at a local bar. We found a guy absolutely hammering away at the piano. He didn’t tickle the ivories. He body-slammed them. Fortunately for everyone listening, he was really, really good. Take a listen.

Then it was time to say agur—Basque for goodbye—to Zarautz and continue our journey down the coast.

San Sebastián was our next stop. It’s a beautiful city that reminded me of a smaller version of Barcelona, with dramatic churches, elegant architecture, and a laid-back beach vibe.

La Concha Beach is regularly ranked among the best city beaches in Europe. Its name means “The Shell,” a nod to the bay’s distinctive shape.

Strolling the beach, we were amazed with the artwork etched into the sand. It’s a lot of work that will eventually be washed away by the tide.

We spent a morning walking up to and touring Castillo de la Mota. It was really more of a climb than a walk as its name translates to Castle on the Hill.

The views from the castle were spectacular, stretching across the city, harbor, and coastline. It was easy to see why this location was chosen for a fortress centuries ago.

Of course, no visit to San Sebastián would be complete without sampling some of the local food. We enjoyed plenty of pintxos and even found time for a paella dinner.

Sunday morning the town square came alive with vendors and musicians. It drew a large crowd and was a perfect finale to our time in San Sebastián.

Our trip is approaching the halfway point. Sunday afternoon, we fly to Venice and board a cruise that will take us to Croatia, the Greek Islands, and several islands along the Amalfi Coast.

After we dock in Rome, it’s about 10 days on the Amalfi Coast followed by 10 days in Tuscany. We get back to Florida on July 1. I’m pretty sure we’ll be ready.

Enjoy.

Pete

Somo and Laredo

I’m From Llanes we took a bus to Santander, then hopped on a ferry to the laid-back surf town of Somo.

Somo is considered the birthplace of surfing in Spain, and surf culture is woven into everyday life there.

We really enjoyed the vibe in Somo. There are no giant hotel towers or mega-resorts — mostly surf houses, apartments, restaurants, and beach bars. It feels relaxed and authentic.

I even walked a ways out of town on the Camino before we moved on.

From there we headed to Laredo.

Laredo has one of the longest beaches in northern Spain. Playa La Salvé stretches more than three miles along the coast.

The old part of town, Puebla Vieja, still has narrow stone streets, old defensive walls, Gothic churches, and centuries-old houses.

We also climbed up to La Atalaya, a viewpoint overlooking the city. The walk up was foggy, but the sun made an appearance just as we reached the top.

Our biggest challenge in Laredo was siesta.

In Llanes and Somo we had managed to find a couple restaurants where the kitchens stayed open during the dreaded 4 PM to 8 PM dead zone. Not so in Laredo.

Our first night, we ended up buying sliced meats, olives, cheese, a loaf of bread, and a bottle of wine and turning our hotel’s patio into our own little tapas bar. Honestly, it turned out to be a pretty fun evening.

Next stop… Zarautz.

Enjoy.

Pete

Llanes

We spent two days in Llanes, and it quickly became a favorite. The combination of dramatic coastline, mountain views, and a beautifully preserved old town gives the place a little bit of everything.

One of the highlights is the Paseo de San Pedro, a coastal walkway that runs along the top of the sea cliffs with panoramic views of the harbor, beaches, and distant mountains. In other words… the perfect setup for Kris’ morning walk.

Llanes also still has sections of its medieval walls standing, with parts dating back to the early 1300’s

At the harbor entrance, giant concrete cubes painted in bright colors and abstract patterns serve as wave barriers. They’ve become the town’s signature landmark.

The coastline around Llanes is spectacular, with more than thirty beaches nearby, many tucked dramatically between cliffs and rocky outcroppings.

Llanes was a fun and beautiful stop. So far, it’s Kris’ favorite place of the trip.

Next stop… Somo.

Enjoy.

Pete

Vigo and Pontevedra

We spent one day in each of these Galician cities.

Vigo is one of the world’s major fishing ports, with mussel farms lining the estuary that empties into the Atlantic. Naturally, we were excited to feast on fresh mussels.

Mussel farms or UFO’s? You be the judge.

Unfortunately, the restaurants we tried didn’t have any available. Something about the weather… I think. Either way, the mussels apparently weren’t cooperating.

Dining in Spain still requires some strategic planning. Siesta makes things complicated because most restaurants close from 4 PM until 8 PM. You’ve got to time things right.

Bad name for a restaurant in South Dakota

To make matters worse, even finding a beer can become an adventure.

Vigo is also very hilly. Not quite Porto-level steep, but close. The city has a modern, upscale feel with lots of shopping, wide boulevards, and impressive waterfront areas.

We enjoyed our quick stop there before heading on to Pontevedra.

Kris and I lived in Ponte Vedra, Florida for ten years, so visiting Pontevedra always feels a little familiar. I also spent an extra day there during my Camiño.

This time, though, the city felt quieter and a little more worn than I remembered. Maybe my previous visit happened over a weekend when the old town was more lively and crowded.

Even so, it was nice to see it again. But this was probably my last trip to Pontevedra. I’ve learned that I’m just more drawn to the smaller coastal towns and cities along this part of Spain.

Our next stop is Llanes, another coastal gem.

Enjoy.

Pete

Baiona

We were originally planning to take a bus from Porto to Baiona, but we decided to Uber instead. It cost more, but we arrived four hours earlier, and I was anxious to get there.

During my Camino, Baiona was one of the coolest little coastal towns I passed through. Seven years later, I still remembered it vividly.

It’s a small town, but it’s packed with history.

In 1493, the Pinta landed here after getting separated from the Niña and Santa María during a storm. That made Baiona the first place in Europe to learn about Columbus discovering the New World. Today, a replica of the Pinta sits in the marina.

Because of its strategic location near the Portuguese border and Atlantic shipping lanes, Baiona was frequently attacked by pirates and foreign navies over the centuries. The massive stone fortress built to protect the harbor still stands today, with incredible views in every direction.

Our lodging was a small apartment right on the water. Perfect location. Then again, in a town the size of Baiona, I’m not sure there’s really a bad location.

One of my strongest memories from my Camino stop here was eating seafood paella. Naturally, Kris and I had to order some again. Obviously, it was awful!

We spent two days in Baiona, wandering the waterfront, enjoying the ocean views, and eating way too much. I liked it just as much now as I did seven years ago.

I was just glad I wasn’t walking the Camino when we left.

Next stop… Vigo.

Enjoy.

Pete