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April 19

Day 20 Two Streams to Hot Springs, NC (15.7 miles) 273.4 total miles

Light rain most of last night. Tent staying dry inside. Happy about that.

Another foggy, windy, rainy day to hike in. They say the views from the top of some of these balds is fantastic. I wouldn’t know! Below is Walnut Mtn.

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Knee that I tweaked yesterday feels pretty good. Treated it with a little extra Vitamin I (ibuprofen). It’s downhill most of way to Hot Springs so making good time but beats the crap out of your lower body.

Lots of fog in lower elevations as I’m descending.

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Hot Springs is definitely a hiker town. AT goes right through middle of town. That is the AT symbol on sidewalk at bottom of pic. Very small town with a 2 block business district.

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Had a 12 oz burger at Smoky Mtn Diner as soon as I got to town (about 2PM). Found out then that may be challenging to get a room as there is a hiking festival here Friday and Saturday.

Ended up getting a chalet about half mile from town center. Lodging is very nice but doesn’t have one of those television things I’ve heard so much about.

Taking a zero day tomorrow. Feet and knee need the rest.

Happy trails!

April 18

Day 19 Pigeon River to Two Streams (19 miles) 257.7 miles total

Light rain on and off through night. Stayed dry inside tent. Yea! Warmest night camping so far. Guessing because of low elevation (1698 ft).

Little stream I camped by last night turns into real river down the hill a piece!

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Walked right under I-40 this AM.

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Standing Bear Farm is a very eclectic hiker/hippy hostel/commune. Only a couple hundred yards off trail so thought I’d check it out. After all, they do have restrooms and resupply food. Have tiny store (maybe 10′ x 10′) with pretty much anything a hiker could want. Got a Coke, 2 bagels, and 2 candy bars for $4. It’s on the honor system!

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If I’d have known I could rent this treehouse, I may have timed my passage by better.

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Foggy and rainy almost all day.

A grassy bald is an area at top of mountain that years ago was cleared of trees to graze cattle. This is the grassy bald on Snowbird Mtn. I’m guessing it’s 40 acres of bald. Looks and feels a bit like Ireland today.

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When ET phoned home, I’m pretty sure this is who he called! Freaky looking thing that hums. Said to be an FAA tower. Things that make you go hmm.

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Below is Max Patch Bald. Supposedly incredible views but so foggy I couldn’t see more than 100 yds.

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Rain makes 2 types of mud on trail, a slimy, sink in mud and a looks firm but slippery as grease mud.

Just as I was patting myself on the back for not taking a fall as yet, the greasy mud got me. Sit on floor at home with both legs extended on floor in front of you. Take your right leg and put heel under your butt with knee still facing forward. Felt like my ligaments in knee were going to pop for the few seconds it took to extricate myself from that position.

All seems to be good. Hiked 4 miles after that. Hopefully fine in AM because will be zero day in Hot Springs, NC after 15.7 miles tomorrow.

Happy trails!

April 17

Day 18 Pecks Corner Shelter to Pigeon River (21.7 miles) 238.7 total miles

Tented last night next to “Butter”. Hiked SOBO (ME to GA) couple of years ago. Now going NOBO! He’s about mid 60’s. Told him I definitely wouldn’t be doing the both ways thing!

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Hike today was mostly downhill leaving the Smokies. Rained pretty good for about an hour and half this AM and poured for half hour mid-afternoon.

Don’t know name of lake in distance below. Maybe Mrs. Johnson’s 6th grade class in Groton, SD can figure it out. Probably west and about 10 miles north of Gatlinburg, TN. I’m guessing part of TN Valley Authority.

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Green leaves on trees! Big difference at lower elevation (1700 ft).

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Got 2 miles outside GSMNP when thunder decided I should look for campsite. Got room with river view. Also spent 15 minutes with my feet soaking in river. Felt really good after long hike.

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34.7 miles to Hot Springs, NC for some R&R. Much deserved, if I may add! Supposed to be on and off rain for next 2 days. Hoping it’s mostly off!

Happy trails!

April 16

Day 17 Double Spring Gap Shelter to Pecks Corner Shelter (20.7 miles) 217.1 total miles

Double Spring Shelter has 2 springs. One in NC and other in TN. The trail follows the border for a long way.

Steep hike in fog and wind to Clingman’s Dome this AM. At elevation of 6667 feet, this is the highest point on Appalachian Trail. Too foggy, unfortunately, to see anything from up there.

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There is a parking area with gift shop one half mile from Done and trail. I was excited to be able to walk down there to get a candy bar, coke, and use restroom. Was there at 9:30. Doesn’t open until 10. Long walk back up hill!

Yesterday’s changing forest floor (grass, flowers) was on south side of mtn. Today, on north side, it is extremely mossy. Moss growing on everything, including other moss.

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Next 2 pics are of root systems of large trees that have tipped over. I can guarantee you they make sound waves when they fall, even if no one is here. Notice large boulder entwined in roots of second tree.

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I had seen in guide book that I was coming up on 2 “wild hog containment bridges”. There is an area with lots of native species that has been fenced off to protect from wild hogs. Only fence I’ve seen. The bridges are for hikers to get across fence. Walk up one side, down the other.

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Finished first half of day’s hike at Newfound Gap. It’s off a major highway to Gatlinburg, TN and has a large parking area for day hikers. As soon as I reach lot I hear “Thru-hiker, want some food.” 3 different people providing trail magic together. It was like Easter buffet. Pulled pork sandwiches, deviled eggs, salad, candy, etc. One of the providers was Yard Dart who I had also seen just before Fontana.

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Notice last line on sign. Someone thinks they’re really funny!

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First day of 20+ miles. I’m beat.

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April 15

Day 16 Spence Field Shelter to Double Spring Gap Shelter (11.5 miles) 196.4 total miles.

Cool, crisp AM. Steep climb up out of shelter area to start day. The AT runs along NC/TN border for most of Great Smoky Mtn National Park.  

I believe peak below is TN because it’s name is Rocky Top. “Good ol’ Rocky Top. Rocky Top, Tennessee.” First photo is view from Rocky Top. Second is Rocky Top.



One seasonal change over last 2 days. There is now some green and tiny white, purple, and yellow flowers on forest floor. Until now has been floor of dead leaves. Also starting to notice more bugs at same time.


These vast amounts of open space along the east coast surprise and amaze me.


In the Smokies you have to stay in the area of a shelter so you have to plan your day to end at a shelter. Was hoping to get over Clingman’s Dome today but would have been getting to next shelter at dusk. Decided to hole up here and hit Clingman’s early tomorrow AM.

Happy Easter!

April 14

Day 15 Fontana, NC to Spence Field Shelter (18.5 miles) 182.9 total miles

Had to get permit to hike through Great Smoky Mtn National Park printed at Lodge. Hassle but completed.

Got a ride to trail from Sally and Mr. Sally (Bill). They were providing trail magic at end of my hike yesterday. I didn’t stay long as wanted to get to shower. Turns out their son hiked trail and Sally enjoys spending a weekend in April doing nice things for hikers. You can tell from her smile and laugh that she truly enjoys it as much as the hikers.

First few miles of day were very easy and down around lake. For you Lake Hopatcong’ers, very similar in terrain as walk from end of Mason St to Rock & Roll’s.


This is the “Fontana Hilton”. One of the nicest shelters on trail. Running water and showers!


View from start of Dam. I’ll be crossing tall peak in distance. 10:30 now. Wonder what time will be there.


This is the backside of dam. Feeds the river that goes through Netenhala Gorge and NOC. Long way down.


Lake side of dam.


Rhododendrons getting close to flowering. Have buds on them now. Lots of them all the way from GA. Wild and, in some cases, quite large!


Will cross Clingman’s Dome, highest point on AT late today or tomorrow AM.

April 13

Day 14 Hogback Gap to Fontana Dam (9.5 miles) 164.4 total miles

After 3.5 miles this AM came across Trail Magic provided by “Yard Dart.” Cokes, tangerines, candy, and even dog treats! He started hiking trail mid-March with wife but hurt his leg and unable to continue. Wife is still going for it and he’s providing support.

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This is Cable Gap Shelter, a typical shelter along trail.

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Approaching Lake Fontana and Fontana Dam! Been able to see that Lake for 2 days and now almost there.

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Made it into Fontana about 1PM. Got room at Fontana Village Lodge. Very nice resort. Showered, laundry (lost one of my wool socks…now have 1.5 pair!), fresh trout tacos, a few Buds, and nice quiet room to sleep in!

Did 95 miles this last week. Feeling good. Legs recover much more quickly and blisters pretty much healed. Feeling a lot stronger hiking up hills.

Ready for challenges of Great Smoky Mtns National Park. Starts 2.7 miles from Fontana and runs for 70.5 miles. Will be sleeping in tent for next 4 – 5 nights! Will be biggest challenge to date.

Happy trails!

 

April 12

Day 13 NOC to Hogback Gap (17.9 miles)

That’s enough hosteling for a while. Quite the cacophony of noise in my 8 bunk room. I heard sounds I didn’t realize a human could make…and does everyone snore these days. Great quintet going most of night. Worst sleep since frozen night!

Big climb out of the NOC. Lasted almost all AM. Gained 3300 feet in 7.9 miles. This pic looks back on gorge that NOC is on.

This is from Cheoah Bald. You can see a glimpse of Lake Fontana over my shoulder. Tomorrow’s destination.


There are quite a few signs on Trail. This is by far the nicest. Most are very small telling you that you’re “here” or how far to “there”.

Was going to stop at Brown Fork Gap Shelter but pushed 2 miles further to Hogback Gap. Remote tent site. Thought I’d be by myself but a couple rolled in shortly after dark and tented near me.

That extra 2 mile hike will get me into Fontana an hour earlier in AM. Shower, bed, and laundry await!

Happy trails!

April 11

Day 12 Cold Spring Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center (11.7 miles)

Sunrise from my front porch this AM. Night was chilly but tolerable. This camping spot was up along ridge (4926 elev) as compared to most which are in valley. Nice views.

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This section has the worst fire damage I’ve been through yet. Lots of erosion causing trail to be quite narrow in spots.

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Next couple of pictures are from Weser Bald. In the distance you can see Lake Fontana. Hope to be there in 2 days!

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It amazes and impresses me that there is still so much wilderness in this country. I’ve been wandering through Nantahala National Forest for 2 days and there are wilderness areas as far as you can see. Support your National Parks, they are amazing.

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There is Lake Fontana again. This from The Jumpoff. Crazy name. If you jumped off, odds of death would be about 95%!

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Arrived at NOC mid-afternoon. Huge recreation center (white water rafting, kayaking, fly fishing) that trail goes right through center of.

Had good dinner at River Edge Restaurant. One of top Trail restaurants. Lot of hikers.

Staying at a hostel here at the NOC. 9 bunk beds in 2 rooms. Got here late so I have a top bunk.

Next up, Fontana Dam in 2 days. Great Smokey Mountains after that.

Happy trails!

April 10

Day 11 Winding Stair Gap to Cold Spring Shelter (15.8 miles)

Caught shuttle back to trail and hiking by 9:30. Beautiful day. Sunny and about 60.

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Every once in awhile you cross Forest Service roads like below. Strange thing about this one is that was uphill to get to road and those stairs you see on other side are practically straight up too. Not what you want to see when getting to road!

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Below views are from Wayah Bald (elev 5342). Middle picture is Omaha Rick…in case anyone knows him, he’s alive and well.

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Met a guy heading south looking for his phone. Said had left pack 2 miles ahead, if I found phone just leave with pack. Didn’t find phone but did see pack with note. He ended up going back 4 miles to shelter he had stayed in and, amazingly, found phone.

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Made it to shelter area about 5. Nice spot for the night. Tomorrow about 12 miles to Nantahala Outdoor Center.