April 17

Day 18 Pecks Corner Shelter to Pigeon River (21.7 miles) 238.7 total miles

Tented last night next to “Butter”. Hiked SOBO (ME to GA) couple of years ago. Now going NOBO! He’s about mid 60’s. Told him I definitely wouldn’t be doing the both ways thing!

FullSizeRender (6)

Hike today was mostly downhill leaving the Smokies. Rained pretty good for about an hour and half this AM and poured for half hour mid-afternoon.

Don’t know name of lake in distance below. Maybe Mrs. Johnson’s 6th grade class in Groton, SD can figure it out. Probably west and about 10 miles north of Gatlinburg, TN. I’m guessing part of TN Valley Authority.

FullSizeRender (7)FullSizeRender (8)

Green leaves on trees! Big difference at lower elevation (1700 ft).

FullSizeRender (9)

Got 2 miles outside GSMNP when thunder decided I should look for campsite. Got room with river view. Also spent 15 minutes with my feet soaking in river. Felt really good after long hike.

FullSizeRender (10)

34.7 miles to Hot Springs, NC for some R&R. Much deserved, if I may add! Supposed to be on and off rain for next 2 days. Hoping it’s mostly off!

Happy trails!

April 16

Day 17 Double Spring Gap Shelter to Pecks Corner Shelter (20.7 miles) 217.1 total miles

Double Spring Shelter has 2 springs. One in NC and other in TN. The trail follows the border for a long way.

Steep hike in fog and wind to Clingman’s Dome this AM. At elevation of 6667 feet, this is the highest point on Appalachian Trail. Too foggy, unfortunately, to see anything from up there.

IMG_0439

There is a parking area with gift shop one half mile from Done and trail. I was excited to be able to walk down there to get a candy bar, coke, and use restroom. Was there at 9:30. Doesn’t open until 10. Long walk back up hill!

Yesterday’s changing forest floor (grass, flowers) was on south side of mtn. Today, on north side, it is extremely mossy. Moss growing on everything, including other moss.

IMG_0441

Next 2 pics are of root systems of large trees that have tipped over. I can guarantee you they make sound waves when they fall, even if no one is here. Notice large boulder entwined in roots of second tree.

FullSizeRender (3)FullSizeRender (4)

I had seen in guide book that I was coming up on 2 “wild hog containment bridges”. There is an area with lots of native species that has been fenced off to protect from wild hogs. Only fence I’ve seen. The bridges are for hikers to get across fence. Walk up one side, down the other.

IMG_0446

Finished first half of day’s hike at Newfound Gap. It’s off a major highway to Gatlinburg, TN and has a large parking area for day hikers. As soon as I reach lot I hear “Thru-hiker, want some food.” 3 different people providing trail magic together. It was like Easter buffet. Pulled pork sandwiches, deviled eggs, salad, candy, etc. One of the providers was Yard Dart who I had also seen just before Fontana.

IMG_0447

Notice last line on sign. Someone thinks they’re really funny!

IMG_0448

First day of 20+ miles. I’m beat.

FullSizeRender (5)

April 15

Day 16 Spence Field Shelter to Double Spring Gap Shelter (11.5 miles) 196.4 total miles.

Cool, crisp AM. Steep climb up out of shelter area to start day. The AT runs along NC/TN border for most of Great Smoky Mtn National Park.  

I believe peak below is TN because it’s name is Rocky Top. “Good ol’ Rocky Top. Rocky Top, Tennessee.” First photo is view from Rocky Top. Second is Rocky Top.



One seasonal change over last 2 days. There is now some green and tiny white, purple, and yellow flowers on forest floor. Until now has been floor of dead leaves. Also starting to notice more bugs at same time.


These vast amounts of open space along the east coast surprise and amaze me.


In the Smokies you have to stay in the area of a shelter so you have to plan your day to end at a shelter. Was hoping to get over Clingman’s Dome today but would have been getting to next shelter at dusk. Decided to hole up here and hit Clingman’s early tomorrow AM.

Happy Easter!

April 14

Day 15 Fontana, NC to Spence Field Shelter (18.5 miles) 182.9 total miles

Had to get permit to hike through Great Smoky Mtn National Park printed at Lodge. Hassle but completed.

Got a ride to trail from Sally and Mr. Sally (Bill). They were providing trail magic at end of my hike yesterday. I didn’t stay long as wanted to get to shower. Turns out their son hiked trail and Sally enjoys spending a weekend in April doing nice things for hikers. You can tell from her smile and laugh that she truly enjoys it as much as the hikers.

First few miles of day were very easy and down around lake. For you Lake Hopatcong’ers, very similar in terrain as walk from end of Mason St to Rock & Roll’s.


This is the “Fontana Hilton”. One of the nicest shelters on trail. Running water and showers!


View from start of Dam. I’ll be crossing tall peak in distance. 10:30 now. Wonder what time will be there.


This is the backside of dam. Feeds the river that goes through Netenhala Gorge and NOC. Long way down.


Lake side of dam.


Rhododendrons getting close to flowering. Have buds on them now. Lots of them all the way from GA. Wild and, in some cases, quite large!


Will cross Clingman’s Dome, highest point on AT late today or tomorrow AM.

April 13

Day 14 Hogback Gap to Fontana Dam (9.5 miles) 164.4 total miles

After 3.5 miles this AM came across Trail Magic provided by “Yard Dart.” Cokes, tangerines, candy, and even dog treats! He started hiking trail mid-March with wife but hurt his leg and unable to continue. Wife is still going for it and he’s providing support.

FullSizeRender (1)

This is Cable Gap Shelter, a typical shelter along trail.

FullSizeRender (2)

Approaching Lake Fontana and Fontana Dam! Been able to see that Lake for 2 days and now almost there.

IMG_0418

Made it into Fontana about 1PM. Got room at Fontana Village Lodge. Very nice resort. Showered, laundry (lost one of my wool socks…now have 1.5 pair!), fresh trout tacos, a few Buds, and nice quiet room to sleep in!

Did 95 miles this last week. Feeling good. Legs recover much more quickly and blisters pretty much healed. Feeling a lot stronger hiking up hills.

Ready for challenges of Great Smoky Mtns National Park. Starts 2.7 miles from Fontana and runs for 70.5 miles. Will be sleeping in tent for next 4 – 5 nights! Will be biggest challenge to date.

Happy trails!

 

April 12

Day 13 NOC to Hogback Gap (17.9 miles)

That’s enough hosteling for a while. Quite the cacophony of noise in my 8 bunk room. I heard sounds I didn’t realize a human could make…and does everyone snore these days. Great quintet going most of night. Worst sleep since frozen night!

Big climb out of the NOC. Lasted almost all AM. Gained 3300 feet in 7.9 miles. This pic looks back on gorge that NOC is on.

This is from Cheoah Bald. You can see a glimpse of Lake Fontana over my shoulder. Tomorrow’s destination.


There are quite a few signs on Trail. This is by far the nicest. Most are very small telling you that you’re “here” or how far to “there”.

Was going to stop at Brown Fork Gap Shelter but pushed 2 miles further to Hogback Gap. Remote tent site. Thought I’d be by myself but a couple rolled in shortly after dark and tented near me.

That extra 2 mile hike will get me into Fontana an hour earlier in AM. Shower, bed, and laundry await!

Happy trails!

April 11

Day 12 Cold Spring Shelter to Nantahala Outdoor Center (11.7 miles)

Sunrise from my front porch this AM. Night was chilly but tolerable. This camping spot was up along ridge (4926 elev) as compared to most which are in valley. Nice views.

IMG_0377

This section has the worst fire damage I’ve been through yet. Lots of erosion causing trail to be quite narrow in spots.

IMG_0396

Next couple of pictures are from Weser Bald. In the distance you can see Lake Fontana. Hope to be there in 2 days!

IMG_0397

It amazes and impresses me that there is still so much wilderness in this country. I’ve been wandering through Nantahala National Forest for 2 days and there are wilderness areas as far as you can see. Support your National Parks, they are amazing.

IMG_0398

There is Lake Fontana again. This from The Jumpoff. Crazy name. If you jumped off, odds of death would be about 95%!

IMG_0399 (2)

IMG_0402

Arrived at NOC mid-afternoon. Huge recreation center (white water rafting, kayaking, fly fishing) that trail goes right through center of.

Had good dinner at River Edge Restaurant. One of top Trail restaurants. Lot of hikers.

Staying at a hostel here at the NOC. 9 bunk beds in 2 rooms. Got here late so I have a top bunk.

Next up, Fontana Dam in 2 days. Great Smokey Mountains after that.

Happy trails!

April 10

Day 11 Winding Stair Gap to Cold Spring Shelter (15.8 miles)

Caught shuttle back to trail and hiking by 9:30. Beautiful day. Sunny and about 60.

IMG_0363

Every once in awhile you cross Forest Service roads like below. Strange thing about this one is that was uphill to get to road and those stairs you see on other side are practically straight up too. Not what you want to see when getting to road!

IMG_0367

Below views are from Wayah Bald (elev 5342). Middle picture is Omaha Rick…in case anyone knows him, he’s alive and well.

IMG_0369IMG_0370IMG_0372

Met a guy heading south looking for his phone. Said had left pack 2 miles ahead, if I found phone just leave with pack. Didn’t find phone but did see pack with note. He ended up going back 4 miles to shelter he had stayed in and, amazingly, found phone.

IMG_0373IMG_0374 (1)IMG_0376

Made it to shelter area about 5. Nice spot for the night. Tomorrow about 12 miles to Nantahala Outdoor Center.

April 9

Day 10 Long Branch Shelter to Winding Stair Gap (7.2 miles)

A bit less cold last night (low 30’s?). Didn’t have to sleep in jacket, etc. so that’s good.

I’ve been pitching my tent in area near shelters (usually 3 walked building with platform on floor to sleep on). The areas have cleared pads for tents. Levels must not have been invented when pads were made. Very uneven. Have to shim my air pad I sleep on to keep from sliding off sometimes.

Got moving about 7:30AM. Huge motivator to know you’ll be getting a shower, laundry, and a bed at end of day.

Last week’s moisture seems to have springs and streams flowing well. They’ve been in drought conditions around here. Many places you can see remnants of wildfires from last fall.

IMG_0345

The trail is frequently narrow with a drop on one side or the other. If you would slip here you would probably roll until a tree stopped you. Only a couple spots where there has been a shear drop with nothing stopping a fall do a while.

IMG_0346

Some signs of spring at lower elevations. No clue what type of tree is budding here, but I thought it was cool!

IMG_0347

Finished my 7.2 miles at 11AM. At the point where that’s just getting warmed up!

2190 miles is too much for my mind to handle so I’m breaking the hike into 20 hikes of approximately 110 miles. Finished the first of those today. 109.5 miles down!

Lucked out again with ride when got to Gap. Jim picked me up and gave me a ride the 10 miles to Franklin, NC. Retired AT&T engineer (Purdue, Ozzy) who just likes to help hikers.

Congrats to Sergio Garcia on his Masters win. Was able to watch at Mulligans Sports Bar and Grill. Had a great time visiting with Trey (below). He even bought me a Bud. Thanks, Trey.

IMG_0362

Hoping to make it about 30 miles next 2 days to Nantahala Outdoor Center (NOC).

Happy trails!

April 8

Day 9 Standing Indian Shelter to Long Branch Shelter (16.3 miles)

It was a very cold night (guessing low 20’s) to be trying to sleep in a tent. Emphasis on trying. Wore all my clothes, plus jacket, stocking cap, and gloves, inside sleeping bag. Not a fun night.

Started walking by 9 and it was quite nice (warm) out by afternoon.

Most of the trail is a path that just goes up and down a lot. Every once in a while you have to hop across a stream or scramble on some rocks.


Below is Standing Indian Mtn (elev 5435). Think that’s the highest point to go over yet. Went from 4742 elev at Shelter this AM to here in first 1.5 mile of day. That will get blood flowing!


Mile 99.8 is Albert Mtn fire tower. It is a National Historical Landmark if you want to look it up. Last 0.3 mile to get here was 400 ft elevation gain. Brutal! Pulling myself up by rocks and trees.


The tall peak in center of below photo I believe is Standing Indian Mtn where I was 12.5 miles and 7 hrs ago.

In the next 3 photos, if you zoom in, you can see the trail winding through these hills. That is where I’ve been walking all afternoon.



Mile 100. Breaking out my happy dance!


Got to camp about 6:30. Should be a little warmer tonight. Peanut butter tortillas for dinner.

Easy (I hope) 7 mile hike tomorrow to Franklin, NC.

Happy Trails!