Author: jpetesd

Day 14 Somo to Santander 4 miles (210 miles total)

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Today was a “nero” day. As in nearly zero miles. 
It was raining, windy, and cold in the morning. If you haven’t figured it out yet, I’m a fair weather hiker! 
I basically walked out of Somo to a ferry stop, took the ferry across the bay to Santander and walked a ways through the city. 

The temperature today was in the mid-50’s. My planning for this trek did not factor these type of temps in. 
As I was killing time I decided to check out the latitude here and discovered it is basically the same as Toronto, Canada. Add in the fact that we’re next to a cold ocean and it starts to make sense. Probably should have looked into that a month ago. I would have brought a pair of long pants along!
Santander is a fairly big city with some interesting architecture. This is the Banco de Santander building. I found that interesting because, at one point, I owned some stock in that. Can’t remember how that worked out so that means probably not very good.

The Camino goes right down “Main Street”. 

By late afternoon, the wind was still blowing but sky was clearing up. Today was first time I recalled any real wind. 
This picture looks back across the bay to the cliffs we walked along yesterday.

This whole latitude discovery helps explain another thing. Sun doesn’t set here until about 10PM. 
I thought about stopping in here and buying myself a fiddle but all they sell is clothes. Guess I could have gotten a pair of pants. 

I’ve covered 210 miles in 2 weeks. I hoped to do 100 miles/week so pretty much on pace.  I know now that I can really do 100 miles in 5 days and take 2 days off so I’ve got that going for me…which is nice. 
There is a path called the Camino Primitivo that splits off from the Camino del Norte somewhere up ahead. It sounds much more physically challenging. I’ve really done zero research on it as I just heard someone talk about it last night but my curiosity is peaked. 
The Camino del Norte eventually turns inland. If the Primitivo doesn’t force me to miss too much beach scenery, I may take it. Something to think about. 
Tomorrow’s weather sounds nice so I’ll be getting a move on in the morning. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 13 Noja to Somo 18 miles (206 miles total)

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Thought I was going to be in for some rain today as I left Noja. 

The first 12 miles or so today was up and over some hills. Ended up not raining. I was happy about that but guessing the farmers not so much. Some of the fields look pretty dry. 
This corn won’t be knee high by the 4th of July!
John Deere green. She thinks his tractor’s sexy. 
If you don’t get it, you need a little country music in your life. 

I’ve seen thousands of this type of palm tree in my days. Never seen one with geraniums growing up the trunk. Love this look. 

And then for the last 5 or 6 miles we are back to the beach. That just doesn’t get old!

The Camino goes right along the top of these cliffs. 

Sometimes it’s good to take a look back and see where you came from. 

Sometimes it’s good to take a look back and see where you came from. 

Sometimes it’s good to take a look back and see where you came from. 

Our destination is that long stretch of sandy beach ahead and the surf town of Somo. 

Spent some time with a couple salty locals.

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 12 Islares to Noja 22 miles (188 miles total)

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As I awoke this morning I looked up out of my tent and realized 2 things:  (1) I’m glad I’m not into rock climbing; and (2) If there’s an earthquake right now I’m screwed.

Another nice day for walking. They seem to be planting lots of eucalyptus trees around here. They smell great and love that blue/grey hue. 

 I have an app where I’m a little dot that flashes and the trail is a series of blue dots. As long as the flashing one is matched up with the blue dots, all is good. Hasn’t got me lost yet.
As I’m following the blue dots out of town below, an elderly guy who was missing a few teeth asked “Camino?”  Si. He pointed back down the hill and showed me a yellow arrow (like white blazes on AT).   It’s not following my app but for some reason I listened.

Trail started going up a dirt toad and away from my blue dots. Scenic but disconcerting. 

I’m seeing a random yellow arrow and the road makes no turns so I keep going. 

Starting to get a little nervous. I am now convinced the guy who led me this way had a bit of a grin when he sent me on my way. There are random chain saws revving through the forest. All I can think of is Spanish “Deliverance”.

At the top of knoll (blue dot on app now MIA) I see a Caterpillar-type machine plowing a road. It makes a turn and is heading up one lane (for a car) towards me. I can’t see driver so guessing he can’t see me. There is about 2 feet of brush and a barbed wire fence. I became as intimate with the fence as I could as machine headed towards me. Machine missed me by a foot or 2. Fence, not so much.

I was really having a bad day at this point. As I got to bottom of hill I saw that machine had left a huge mud hole. Should be OK if I just follow tracks.  Not so much. 

Now I am livid. Lost, bleeding, and muddy is no way to go through life.
The rest of the day was way better. Meet Luis. He is restoring this 1950’something Fiat. Incredible looking little car.

 

Laredo (not TX, Austin Bonner!), a nice resort town with a huge beach. 

Getting close to my destination of Noja (Kris,notes).  Anxious to get to this small surfing town.

You can go short way or long way. Short way has warning sign in my guidebook as being very sandy and steep. Only time I’ve seen that warning so I am excited. I can feel adrenaline kicking in.  That little brown line”ish” thing is trail.

Very fun climb with view back to Laredo (way in distance). 

The other side of the mountain!

I was so excited by vistas and climb I decided I was going in ocean. Got down to water line and hardly noticed the 5’7” gorgeous brunette young lady with a butterfly tattoo on her ankle and a pierced bellybutton who was topless. For some reason, she screamed in horror just as I was stripping down to my Tommy Johns.  Not exactly sure what scared her.

Hiked final 2 miles on the beach. For a day that started pretty bad, it ended fantastic. Remember that next time your day totally blows and it’s not even mid-morning. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 11 Castro Urdiales to Islares 7 miles (166 miles total)

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So I spent all day yesterday celebrating Sunday Funday only to discover today that it was Saturday. Oops!

Today I made a totally unplanned early stop. Just because I could. 


I may have missed the running of the bulls in Pamplona (July 6 if interested) but I witnessed the sauntering of the sheep in Castro Urdiales. Guy is a true urban cowboy. Herding them down the road with his car. 

Ever in your life come across threesomes that just make zero sense?  I just don’t understand what those nice bovine would be doing with that jackass. On top of that, this is the worst pastureland I have ever seen.  The picture does not represent how steep that hillside/cliff is down to ocean. 

I ended up stopping today at base of big hill on the left. 

Got in the water a couple times. It was cold. Guessing low 60 degrees. Wanted to body surf but it was too cold for me. If that guy in picture rolls 2 feet to his left he’ll roll another 50 feet. Straight down. 

My tent spot for the night. Not real scenic but great location. 

Tomorrow is supposed to be partly sunny and then 4 days of cool temps and rain. Not a fan of those days. 
Before I let you go, I have one tip for the fashionistas out there. Canvas Converse All Star high top tennis shoes. They are all the rage here. All of the fashion forward ladies are wearing them. Just remember you heard it here first. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 10 Castro Urdiales 0 miles (159 miles total)

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First of all, mad props to Rod Benson. He made a commitment to a goal and he has kept at it. Lost 28 lbs in 3 months. More than half way to his goal. That makes me happy. Keep going, Rod. You’re kicking butt…or maybe losing butt!  
 
Spent a very relaxing day. Another gorgeous one. 
This town is really old. Became a Roman colony in the year 74. Not 19, 18, or 1774.  I’m talking 0074!
The building on left is the Church of St Mary. Built in 13th century. The arch-shaped bridge (right-center) was built by Romans in medieval times. Have to admit, they built things to last. 

I had a lot of fun with the nude beach thing in yesterday’s blog!  I won’t mess with you today… but if you look really hard…

Don’t recall ever seeing stadium style seating at a beach. 

Couple of random thoughts…

Americans are really good at lots of things. I didn’t quite realize how good we (you) are at this music thing. Everywhere, no matter the size of the town, if there is music playing, it’s US. Hardly anyone speaks English but they’ll listen to everything American!  I don’t get it but I like it!
Siestas are an awesome thing if you’re the one doing the siestaing. If you’re hiking, a bit inconvenient. Businesses close from 2-4pm. Everyone goes to a bar and has lunch and a couple beers or wine. At 4 the bar empties. I don’t really have a problem with that unless I’m looking for a market at that time. The real problem is that they’re not ready for dinner at 8pm. Hiker midnight is 9pm so that is way late for me. 
Rested and ready to roll.  Please notice that I have “town clothes” for this trip. Kris strongly suggested it. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 9 Bilbao to Castro Urdiales 26 miles (159 miles total)

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The hostel last night worked out OK. Only 2 others in bunk room and they were pilgrims. One of the guys snored (of course). Deep, guttural, disgusting sound. Fortunately it lasted only an hour. 
Wow!  Another perfectly gorgeous day. I’ve got nothing better to do. Think I’ll walk a marathon. 
Left Bilbao along the river. Went right past the Guggenheim Museum. I didn’t stop but I did get to thinking. Wasn’t there a Crazy Guggenheim on TV back in the day?  Maybe on Red Skelton?  Buddy of Clem Cudiddlehopper?

Some pretty funky architecture in Bilbao. Some of the bridges are supposed to be renowned but I wasn’t that impressed.

I walked alongside that river for about 10 miles. Went from nice looking, modern to urban industrial sprawl. Not a nice walk. I went as fast as I could walk. 

The river must end at the ocean but the Camino crossed it and ascended before I could find out. Next was 8 miles mostly along a bike path. Easy but boring stroll. I, again, went as fast as I could. On pavement like this, I will jog on the downhills. It’s actually easier on your joints. You just have to be able to control the speed. It would be bad to take a spill.

Finally a sliver of ocean up ahead!

There are 2 small towns, La Arena and Pobena (Kris…notes), within a half mile of each other on either side of this beach. Very nice towns and beach. If you zoom in you can see the nude sun bathers. 

You zoomed in, didn’t you. I knew you would.  Really just a bit of classy toplessness that I can’t show here. This is a PG blog plus my mom will be reading it!
For me this is a big decision point. It’s 2:30. There’s a nice beach bar that is very active. I can stay at a hostel here or proceed the 8 more miles to Castro Urdiales which is a larger beach town that I plan to spend tomorrow night in. 
Chill here or push on and be able to take a zero day tomorrow?  I’m guessing that the scenery will be good so let’s go for it!
When you do big miles late in the day, there is only one thing that can get you through. Just Pete Rocket Fuel. Coke and gummy bears. WARNING:  Kids, do not try this at home. 

This pic is looking back to the beach from the hill you didn’t notice in other beach photo because you were zooming in.

We have now left the Basque country and are in Cantabria.  I haven’t noticed any changes. Von, can you provide any insight?

This looks really sketchy. 

I rolled into town about 5:30 and went for the first hotel I could find. They had 1 room!  I must have looked (and smelled) bad because receptionist suggested I just go to room to shower and rest and then come back to check in!
Tomorrow will be Sunday Fun Day. Laundry and then cervesas at a beach bar all afternoon. I am ready to relax. Look out Castro Urdiales!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 8 Gernika to Bilbao 19 miles (133 miles total)

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Woke up today to a clear blue, no cloud in the sky day. Yes!!

I have been remiss in reminding people who are following that I am raising money for charity with this hike also. In the past couple of days I’ve had someone new to this hike and someone who followed the AT adventure from day 1 ask how to pledge. My bad.

To pledge, go to at-pete.com and click on Pledge page. You can read about charities on Charity page. While there you should check out the Appalachian Trail page. I think it’s kind of funny!!  Now…back to the sunny day. 

Reminded me of a San Diego morning. Absolutely gorgeous. 

The Camino is already beginning to dry up. Another good day of sun and it will be perfect.

The morning was spent ascending out of Gernika and into the forest. It was my kind of weather for hiking and I was literally skipping up the Camino. 

I walked next to so many small farms and homes today. If I see someone I always wave, smile, and say hola. About 5 miles in I came across trail magic. A very pretty lady, about my age, was at the end of her driveway with a table full of goods. There was change there so I assumed she was taking donations. I had just 5 minutes earlier been thinking how good watermelon is on a day like today. Jackpot!  I tried to take her picture but she refused. We had a nice laugh (international language) and I was off. 

It is really easy to walk when you’ve just had a slice of watermelon, it’s a sunny day, and the Camino looks like this!

When I first saw the brownish tint near the tops of the trees below, I was assuming some sort of disease was infecting them. When I got close, I realized it was a forest of Eucalyptus!  It’s just a San Diego day here in Spain!

I had lunch in Lerrabetzu. It’s kind of the center of the Basque resistance (if that’s the right word). Saw lots of graffiti coming into town. Most about political prisoners. “If anyone deserves freedom it’s those who fought for it”. Wish I knew more about this. 

The end of the day was a long descent into Bilbao. 

Bilbao is a pretty large city and I found the Camino to be difficult to follow. However, I made my way to the hotel I had found in my guide book. It was very near the Camino and in the center of town…but no vacancy. 
I found a youth hostel near there that had a bunk. I got 1 of 14. At least the receptionist felt sorry for me and gave me a bottom bunk. It’s actually fairly nice. Of course, I’m the only one here now!
I saw a Five Guys burger joint on my way here. Took a shower and got on Uber to get a ride.  No Uber service here! 
If there’s one thing I despise after a long hike, it’s walking.  I was uber upset! (You have to admit…that is a really good line😂) Had to walk half mile up hill both ways. My Five Guys bill was $22. It was worth that just for the 2 milkshakes. 
Now I lie hear waiting for 13 young, drunken revelers to walk in. Wish me luck. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 7 Markina-Xemein to Gernika 16 miles (114 miles total

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Yesterday’s 23 miles involved 58,181 steps and 327 floors climbed according to my iPhone Health app. No wonder I was so tired!
Today was much better. No rain and even saw the sun later in the day. 
They have been doing some heavy deforestation along the last 10 miles yesterday and first 5 today. I don’t like it, but I don’t have a say.  Below is an example of how many of the hills have been stripped.

In talking to a few people who have walked here before, other upcoming areas of Spain are more welcoming of pilgrims than the Basque region.  Farmers will give you something to drink or some bread (trail magic). Well, I found some Basque trail magic today. Chairs…with a back!  Not quite as euphoric as on AT but I sat for a minute anyway. 

It was a very relaxing walk today after yesterday’s forced march.  The terrain was relatively easy and I just sauntered.

I generally try to not stop and sit early in the day as it is hard to get these old muscles moving again.  Today I ran into some other pilgrims at a nice little bar/cafe. I had met a couple of them yesterday so I stopped. 

Norbert (France) stayed at same alburque as I last night. Anna (Czech Republic) hiked the same 23 miles as I yesterday. She is a very good, and experienced, hiker. Albert (Switzerland) I met for first time. They had coffee of some sort, I had a coke and we passed around a small water bottle Anna had that contained homemade apple schnapps. Camino moonshine!  
They all spoke at least 3 languages. Thankfully English is one of them. Makes me feel a bit stupid.
One funny thing is when I tell Europeans my name is Pete. 100% say “Oh, Peter”. I say “No, Just Pete”. It’s pretty funny to me, anyway. 
Below is what the hillsides are supposed to look like. Said by the American who can’t even speak the language!

Albert had some great pics of the upcoming areas as he has hike that portion of Camino del Norte before. We’ve got some exciting coastal views coming up. 
We’re starting to head back towards the coast now. About 25 miles away. You can catch a glimpse of the ocean in next pic. Center of pic, just above trees. If you can’t see it, use your imagination!

Everything is so green and lush. Must be something to do with constant clouds and rain!!

Made it into Gernika in early afternoon. Got a room in a 2 star hotel and took a nap. 
Gernika has a lot of interesting history. There was a large massacre here in 1936 during a civil war. Picasso was commissioned to commemorate the event with a massive painting. It is considered one of his most important works of art and now hangs at a museum in Madrid. That is my simplistic version of events. If you want more details, Google it. 
Supposed to be sunny and warm for next 3 days. I’m going to head for the beach. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 6 Zumaia to Markina-Xemein 23 miles (98 total miles)

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Today was a roller coaster of a day. Physically and mentally. 
I ended up with a solo room at the alburque. Of course there were only 9 people there with capacity of 38!
My feet were really sore this AM. Too many miles in wet shoes and socks but had to be out of alburque by 8am so I was walking at 7:30.

Same weather starting out. Mentally wearing me down and abusing my feet. 

I decided I would take it easy today. 8 miles to Deba. Some rest and drying out for my feet.  Plan A.
This is an example of what parts of the Camino are like with this rain. Try keeping your tootsies dry in that. We won’t even talk about the horse dung and cow pies camouflaged in there.

It rained fairly good off and on.  Stop. Take pack off. Put rain jacket on. Put pack back on. Hike. Rain stops. You stop. Take pack off. Take rain jacket off. Put pack back on. Hike. Just keep repeating pretty much all day. 

As I’m getting near Deba, guess what happens. A little bit of sunshine!

When I get to Deba (about 10:00) hotel in my price range is booked. I mope around a little and decide to press on. The trail is going to leave the coast for the next 50 miles but there’s an alburque 3 miles up into the hills that has supposed great view. Weather is nice. Maybe I can tent there. Plan B. 

By the time I get to alburque it’s raining again. They’re supposed to be open at 12:30 but at 12:40 there is no one there. I’m not going to sit here in the rain. 

Hike 2 miles to next little hostel of some sort. Plan C. 
Half the planet stole my Plan C. No room at the inn.
Next option is 10 miles down the Camino and it’s 1:30. Not many options so…Plan D. 
The first 3 or 4 miles was really hard climb. Just what I needed at this point!
This 10 mile stretch is, of course, the most difficult part of the Camino del Norte that I have experienced thus far…by lots!
The last 5 miles are pretty much a blur. I was staggering down the trail like a drunken soldier. 
Bottom line is I made it safe and sound. So much for the easy, relaxing day. 
More rain forecast for tomorrow and then 3 days of sun and temps in the 70’s. I need that. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 5 San Sebastián to Zumaia 20 miles (75 miles total)

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The weather today was more of the same…high 50’s temp, on and off drizzle.  All day this time. I specifically chose this time of year for warmer weather and less rain!

A good chunk of the morning walk was on roads and paved surfaces. That’s really good for keeping shoes, socks, and feet dry. It’s also nice to walk near some of the country villas. They can really grow geraniums and hydrangea!

A little rock art. 

I would really like to see what some of these views would be like in the sunshine. Maybe someday!

Starting to see some grape vines now. Most of them look relatively young to me. I would guess a newer crop for the area. 

Early in the day I had passed a guy who was wearing sandals. A couple hours later I hear someone behind me. It’s “sandal dude”. Juan Antonio from Córdoba. We walked together for a couple miles. I very seldom do that because I walk at my pace. If you want to walk with me, good luck. He could hike!  At one point there was a fairly steep, but short, hill. As we’re going up, we both keep gradually increasing speed. At top we smiled and fist bumped. It was invigorating and fun! Shortly after that he stopped for a cerveza. I, unlike me, hiked on.

Town of Orio. 

As I was starting to descend into Zarautz, I spied a nice looking golf course. On the way down I planned the perfect photo shoot.   Me teeing off on #1. Pack on. Hat on. Ocean in background. I went around the gate at this private club and soon realized they were closed (Monday). There was a security guard who stopped me by starter shack. Told him what I wanted to do. He apparently didn’t want to see my sweet swing as he politely escorted me back out the gate. Would have been epic!

Zarautz is a great beach town (Kris, add to your notes). Small, great surfing, beach, and bars. What more could you ask for!

I applied for a job trimming ivy at this house. 

Got to Zumia about 4PM. My feet are really sore from the wetness. I don’t think any blisters. 


Staying at my first alburque. Almost every town along the Camino has one or more. They are inexpensive, hostel-type lodging. Usually include communal dinner. 


This one was a nun convent for 500+ years. No food. You pay whatever you want to donate. Does have a shower (no towels or soap).  Dried with paper towels. 


I gave donation of $10. As of now, room to myself. Told volunteer host I would donate another $5 if it stays that way. Wish me luck!


Happy trails and buen Camino!