Blog

Day 26 Muros de Nalón to Cadavedo 20 miles (395 miles total)

Great day of hiking today. Little haze and humidity but trail and scenery were muy buen!

Most of today the Camino avoided roads and was on trails. Lots of walking through forests, up and down hills, and across streams. Much more similar to AT hiking…except 0 falls. I shouldn’t even say that. Watch me wipe out tomorrow!

unnamed

This is the Quinta de El Pito, known also as the Versailles of Austurias. They wouldn’t let me any closer than this.

unnamed (1)

The amount of money that was spent on churches back in those days flabbergasts me. Seems like that it was more about empire building than sharing the gospel and helping your fellow man.

IMG_1131

The “Hola” smile of the day goes to a fellow pilgrim. Roberto is 82 years old. Told me he tries to make 9-12 miles/day. Told him I just hope to be upright at that age! Great attitude!

unnamed (2)

One of the unique (and spectacular) things today was that one minute you’re walking through a forest of eucalyptus trees and bamboo, then you get to an opening and there’s the ocean.

unnamed (3)

You can really see the haze up in the mountains. All of the ups and downs combined with the humidity to make for lots of perspiration. I won’t tell you how many days since last laundry but wouldn’t be surprised if you can smell me while reading this!

unnamed (4)

The highlight of the day happened about noon as I passed through a small village. An older couple were out attempting to pick lemons from a large lemon tree next to their house. He had a fruit grabbing tool and was reaching as far as he could while she held on to his belt loop to keep him from toppling over.

I stopped and, in my best Spanish mime, pointed at myself, then the grabber tool, and then the tree. They were more than happy for the help!

I picked until they told me to stop (just when I was getting good at it!). They were both so grateful. As I was getting ready to leave they kept asking me something. Of course I couldn’t understand. They may have been asking me to stay for lunch or could have been asking me to marry their daughter. We’ll never know!

unnamed (5)

If you’ve got an old bicycle sitting around (doesn’t everyone?), here’s an idea. This was theme of the town. Saw 5 or 6 of them painted and potted.

unnamed (6)

These cows have it made. Lush pastures and amazing views. What more could they possibly ask for?

unnamed (7)

I don’t get tired of the views. Sometimes today I got tired of the climbing but never the views.

unnamed (8)

That giant alligator swimming by looks almost like a rock formation.

unnamed (9)

Today (and lots of other days) I really appreciated how fortunate I am to be physically able to do this. There is only one way to get to a view like this and that is to walk.

unnamed (10)

Spending tonight in upstairs bedroom of a lady’s house for $20. She’s doing my laundry for $6. Hope the smell doesn’t knock her out!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

 

Day 25 Salinas to Muros de Nalón 11 miles (375 miles total)

A gorgeous, sunny day with temps in low 70’s. Nice!

Climbed out of Salinas up to the ridge line. Along the way I met the “Hola” smile of the day. He doesn’t move quickly but at least he’s moving!

unnamed

I get such enjoyment out of this Hola bit. I will sometimes tell them that I am the “Hola Hombre”. I’ve always wanted to be an hombre and they usually laugh so it’s all good!

I don’t know what this town is but it looks pretty nice from up on the ridge. It’s about 2 or 3 miles west of Salinas. I’ll award a gold star to first one to figure it out.

unnamed (1)

Seems like today, I’m just being teased with glimpses of the ocean. Thankfully the scenery is much better than yesterday.

unnamed (2)

Everything is so lush and green wherever you look. I’ve not been to the southern coast of Spain but I’ve been told it gets much less rainfall and is significantly warmer than here on the north.

unnamed (3)

One of my aggravations (aside from meal times) here is coffee. I don’t drink it but when they make it there is a huge process involved. They grind some up, put it in this machine that fizzes and spits, slowly enough comes out to fill a cup that is slightly bigger than a shot glass, and then they add milk or slowly pour over ice.

This may not sound like a big deal to you but when you’ve been walking for 3 straight hours and just want a simple coke it is painful. Each shot takes nearly a minute to make. Today I stopped at a place, watched the waitress make 4 of these things, knew she was making 3 or 4 more, and walked out. I had to walk another 30 minutes to next bar/cafe to get my coke. I sure showed them!

unnamed (4)

I was much happier after I got my coke but I am really beginning to dislike those coffee machines!!

unnamed (5)

They are not afraid of using bold colors on their houses.

unnamed (6)

Walked near this river for quite some time. It must start from those hills.

unnamed (7)

It eventually meanders its way to the ocean.

unnamed (8)

Remember those storage shed type things on stilts I had a picture of a few days ago. Got some information on them. They are called horreos and were/are used to store corn and grain crops. Virtually all of them, including this one, are more than 100 years old.

unnamed (9)

This one is at a family run lodging establishment and they’ve turned it into a room.

unnamed (10)

I stayed in it. Very nicely done. Ignore my crap strewn around the place but notice the sign above bed. I thought that was quite funny!

unnamed (11)

Good place to spend Fathers Day!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 24 Gijón to Salinas 18 miles (364 miles total)

Happy Fathers Day to all of you dads…especially mine!  Hope you have a great day. 

Got a late start today. Watched a bit of US Open last night/this AM. I can get live coverage on my phone but leaders tee off after 11PM here. 

Today was pretty ugly scenery for the most part. I was warned about this long stretch of industrial vistas…and they were right!

Began with 2-3 miles of urban/retail walk out of Gijon. Straight out this street past retail stores of every type. This was one time I was glad Kris isn’t with me. We’d still be there…and my pack would be 10 lbs heavier but she would have gotten some great deals!!

After getting out of Gijon the Camino climbed up to a mesa-like area. Flat and nice hiking. This was a multi-use area. Can’t tell from pic but that horse was moving. 

From there it was down into a valley. Lots of grassland that they will hay and some larger areas of tilled land. 

Not sure what they do with all the hay. Cows, sheep, and horses seem to have plenty to eat in their pastures. 

The next 8 miles was terrible. Road walking next to factories (most of them abandoned and falling apart) and burnt shells of buildings. I didn’t take a single picture. Too gross and I was walking as fast as I could. 

Finally got out of that crap and reached the town of Aviles. It was a nice afternoon and I could have been talked into stopping for a beer in the plaza but only 3 more miles to the smaller surf town of Salinas. 

Today’s “Hola” smile is from a stop for a coke before I got to Salinas. I must have looked pretty bad because he was initially laughing at (not with) me. We conversed through a waitress who translated for us. He reminded me of a South Dakota farmer. He gave me a big (look at size of his hands) handshake and a buen Camino as I left. 

This is the view of Salinas before descending into town.

Salinas has a few nice restaurants along the malecon (thanks, Von!). It seems a bit more upscale than some of the other surf towns I’ve stopped in. 

This is my abode for the evening. My room is that upper right portal. If you zoom in, you can see that the portal is open. I was pretty certain that I would not be able to figure out how to close it but I surprised myself. Go, me!

This restaurants having their kitchens closed from 4-8PM is a pain in my butt. I got to town at 4. Was hungry and not going to sit around until 8. 

Went to the supermarket and got my own dinner. Bon appetit!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 23 Deva to Gijon 5 miles (346 miles total)

The campground I stayed in was quite nice. I had a nice lot and electrical hookup just like my neighbors. Probably paid the same too!

The AT markings were much easier to follow than those marking the Camino. I used the navigation app on my phone a few times per day on AT. Here, a few times per hour. 

The Camino is marked by scallop shells and yellow arrows.  Sometimes yellow arrows indicate a turn but take you to an alburque or bar instead of keeping you on Camino. Frustrating. I’ve grown a bit wary of the yellow arrows. 

Other times, like here, not a single marking. Left fork?  Seems to be where road is heading. Right fork?  Feels like right direction. Center?  Path through a park which would make total sense. 

If you picked B, you get a gold star. I picked the path through the park. Fortunately I was able to easily rejoin… this time. 

Most of the walk today was actually on nicely groomed dirt paths. Went by park which had about 50 of these very large, very old, and very gnarled trees. No clue what kind of trees they are. Bernie Wenzig?

Came across a 9-hole municipal golf course. Saw 2 older guys chatting in parking lot. Tried to convey to them that I needed a club, a ball, and a photographer. They got it after about 5 minutes. 

Quite amazing that swing isn’t playing at Pebble Beach this weekend. 

Heard a big noise like recess at an elementary school up ahead. Rounded a corner and scores of kids heading at me. 

God bless teachers. There had to be at least 200 kids and about 15 teachers. A couple of the teachers saw me smiling and laughing and smiled back while rolling their eyes and shaking their head!

Look up and to the right you will see the mob they had to control. Some trying to run, others not wanting to walk, all of them talking. All I can say is it takes a special person to be a teacher. You have all of my respect and appreciation.

The city of Gijon. This is directly across street from my hotel. 

Gijon is a coastal city with wide, sandy beaches. 

There is also a nice pedestrian pathway along the beach. 

This masterpiece is made of wine bottles. Hundreds of them. Very fragile piece of artwork I would think. 

I’ve been about 25 days without a Budweiser now. Stumbled into a place today that actually got a delivery of Bud while I was sitting there. Gotta have me one. 

I’ve had Europeans tell me for years that Bud tastes like “piss”. I now see why they say that. Local beer is higher alcohol content and it’s about 2/3 the price. It was like me trying to drink a light beer in the US. I’d say it tasted like piss but not really sure what piss tastes like. 

Don’t worry, I still can’t wait to get home and have a cold Bud. I haven’t gone totally mad!

The “Hola” smile of the day. 

All I can think of at this statue of Octavio Augusto is “All this marching and fighting and all we have to show for it is Poo”.  I apologize to Poo’ers. I’ll try to stop. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

P.S.  Happy Fathers Day Eve. Enjoy!

Day 22 Villaviciosa to Deva 14 miles (341 miles total)

Your today is my tomorrow. Very deep and thought provoking, huh?! Probably should be a country song.

I write this on Th. You will read on Friday. My tomorrow/your today happens to be the 33rd wedding anniversary for Kris and I. Happy anniversary. I even remembered flowers. Love you!

unnamed (12)

Today was mostly cloudy and about 60 degrees. Good walking weather.

This is the jumping off point for the Camino Primitivo. I’ll be heading straight toward Gijon.

unnamed

We started out the day walking through the valley. I’ve seen lots of farm animals but there is virtually zero wildlife. Saw 4 small rabbits today and had seen 1 deer while on train from Madrid to Pamplona. Guess that’s what thousands of years of civilization does to the wildlife.

unnamed (1)

We eventually began heading up out of the valley.

unnamed (2)

The people here seem to be exceptional gardeners. So many beautiful yards.

unnamed (3)

The climb up out of the valley went on and on… and on. The most ups and downs since the day I did equivalent of 300 something flights of stairs. Had to stop and catch my breath a few times!

Right at the top…trail magic. Muy perfecto. Even chairs with backs! Guy said he’s up here every day from 9 until 3. Most of the “magic stations” around here have donation boxes. I had a coke and some trail mix. Wanted to give him a couple Euros. Only had a little over one in change and then large bills. Gave him the Euros plus a US $1 bill. He was excited. Had never seen a dollar bill before.

unnamed (4)

What goes up… must come down. Heading back down to the small village below.

unnamed (5)

My “Hola” smile of the day. He was out surveying his sheep. He had a bigger smile until I got the camera on him!

unnamed (6)

I first saw these little buildings set up off the ground a few days ago near the coast. Thought they looked like cool little beach bungalows. Have seen quite a few more today. Think they’re storage bins for their crops. A lot of apple orchards around here. That’s my theory. If I find someone who speaks good English, I’ll confirm. Too complicated a question for my Spanish vocabulary.

unnamed (7)

After that valley we headed up…again. Going over another range of hills. I am declaring this 3rd most difficult day of hiking yet after 300 flight day and Pyrenees climb on day 1.

unnamed (8)

My plan was to stop after 14 miles at a campground in Deva. That will leave me a short walk (5 miles) into Gijon tomorrow.

unnamed (9)

After the second range, I could see the coast again. That’s Gijon in the distance.

unnamed (10)

The campground at Deva also has an alburque for pilgrims. I chose to stay in my tent. They charged people $7 for a bunk in the alburque and $17 for me to pitch my tent. Whaaat? Feeling a little foolish but I won’t be listening to any snoring.

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 21 Vega de Ribadesella to Villaviciosa 20 miles (327 miles total)

I’ve now hiked more than 2,500 miles in my hiking “career”. My goal is to surpass 3,000 miles by the end of this trek. That will happen.

My other goal is to have raised more than $100,000 over those miles for the charities I hike for. Little nervous on that one. As of now, we’re about $5,000 short. If you’ve been procrastinating, now is the time!!

Loved my little tent spot last night. First opportunity to tent where I could hear the surf.

Cloudy and a bit cool starting out this AM!

unnamed

I’ve got my walking pace pretty dialed in. I go 5 Km’s/hr (3 mph). On the AT it was usually 2.5 mph.

I go pretty fast but I also get temporarily disoriented once in a while. Yesterday I went past the same person 3 times. Missed a couple turns. Sometimes the signage is a bit confusing.

unnamed (1)

Today was the best I’ve felt physically. Been having a pain in my left shin each morning that usually goes away in an hour. Think it’s shin splint from too much pavement. Today there was very little pavement and no pain.

unnamed (2)

I’ve decided I won’t be leaving the coast and the Camino del Norte for the mountains and Camino Primitivo.

unnamed (3)

It has been cool enough for me here along the coast. I’m pretty sure I don’t have appropriate attire for the mountains.

unnamed (4)

Plus I don’t need to prove to myself that I can hike up and over mountains. Been there…done that. If I feel the need to do that again I’ll just get on Pacific Crest Trail. Nothing like that planned…just to be clear.

unnamed (5)

Did I remember to mention that I am really enjoying the coastal views?

The last half of the day was up in the hills. It was a nice change of scenery. Reminded me a bit of the AT.

unnamed (6)

My “Hola” pic of the day. Doesn’t she have the prettiest smile? She thought I was loco for wanting to take her pic.

unnamed (7)

This next lady offers coffee and drinks to pilgrims as they pass by her house. I had a coke and chatted with her for 15 minutes. She forced me to use Spanish. That was good practice for me. When I was leaving I said “Muchos gracias” in my best Spanish. She looked at me with a twinkle in her eye and said “You’re welcome”. We both had a good laugh.

unnamed (8)

I’ve been on a mission last 2 days to make it to Villaviciosa.

unnamed (9)

I’ve got a birthday party to get to and I’m excited to meet up with some of my friends.

unnamed (10)

I made it!  One of the good things about being an old guy out here is that the young ladies feel sorry for you and let you hang out with them.

Meet my posse! Left to right…Jessica, Deniella, me, Sally, Scout, and Naomi. It was Deniella’s birthday. She is from Mexico. The other 4 just graduated from college in Utah. They had been roommates for a couple of years and have a great time together.

unnamed (11)

As you can imagine, I had a blast. If you’re reading this ladies, thanks for including me. Hope our paths cross again.
Happy trails and buen Camino!

 

 

My Bad

Last Friday, June 7, I made a big error.

It’s difficult to post videos to blog and I rarely do a video because it takes up too much memory on my phone.

On that Friday, I posted a video to Instagram and Facebook thinking it was just some stupid bit.

The reviews told a different story:

“I believe the Sangria is flowing in your head with Bob Dylan.”

“Apparently you scored some weed before shooting this video.”

“English. Spanish. Jamaican. I’m digging the accent, mon.”

“What kind of happy pills are you taking, buddy?”

“You are a goober mi amigo.”

I erased it from my phone after posting and feel badly that some of my loyal followers have not been able to see this masterpiece!!

If you are interested, I believe there are 3 options:

1. Try this link. May need FB.

2. Find me on FB (Jeff Peterson…there’s probably only 83,247 of those) and look for video post on June 5.

3. Find me on Instagram (just_pete99). Video has my face predominantly displayed.

If none of those work, my humblest apologies.

Just Pete

Day 20 Llanes to Vega de Ribadesella 23 miles (307 miles total)

Pretty crazy day that began as I tried to checkout from hotel. They don’t take your credit card at checkin. Weird. I was looking to get moving about 8AM as I just last night heard about a birthday party for a fellow pilgrim Wednesday eve in a town nearly 40 miles away.

Well, reception desk didn’t open until 9:00. I left a nice note telling them to charge credit card which reservation was made under. Hopefully they understood. If not, that’s why I am rotting in a Spanish prison.
It was drizzly at first but soon gave way to a rainbow.
unnamed
First town I come to after Llanes is Poo. Seriously, who names a town Poo?  I’m imagining some Roman General who was beaten back at Llanes going “Oh, Poo”.  And what is your team mascot?  Poo Bears?  How menacing.
As payback for all my bad jokes about Poo, it started raining…hard…with some sleet thrown in. I didn’t mean it Poo.
We got back to the coast and the rain pretty much stopped. It was still cold, however.
unnamed (1)
unnamed (2)
It then began to clear again and another rainbow. Look really closely, it’s there.
unnamed (3)
It’s one of those rain jacket on and off all day. Still seeing some nice scenery, though.
unnamed (4)unnamed (5)
Then things got really weird in a fun way. Walking next to 2 guys who were Americans. Asked where they were from. Jacksonville.
Told them I was from Ponte Vedra (just south of Jax). Had a good chuckle over that. They then told me they were section hiking the AT 2 years ago in southern VA and had met a guy from Ponte Vedra who was thru-hiking the AT.  Pretty sure I know who that was. Big laughs over that. Meet Conner and Steve (I think…maybe Dave).
unnamed (6)unnamed (7)
The day kind of “normalized” after that. Little sun. More great scenery.
IMG_1386
Just keep following the path.
IMG_1390
These are some serious hydrangea “trees”.
IMG_1394
This is obviously home to an artist. There were 4 of these very nice paintings on walls and doors.   Pretty incredible, huh?
IMG_1396
Vega de Ribadesella is a very small surf town. Not even sure there’s a hotel but I know there are 3 bars and some nice views.
unnamed (8)
Sleeping in my tent tonight about 100 yds up from the surf.   Kind of noisy in a good sort of way!
unnamed (9)
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 19 Llanes 0 miles (284 miles total)

Decided to take a day off. Running (actually walking) a bit ahead of targeted pace. Plus it’s smelling like laundry time and I’ve got a sweet room on the beach.
Missing a pair of my Darn Tuff socks. Crap!  I can see losing one, but the pair??  Guess we’ll see how tough these socks are. Actually not worried about that. Worried about their odor resistance and having to put wet socks on after a day walking in the rain. Double crap!!
I’m getting this laundry thing figured out. Lavadora is washing machine. Secadora is dryer. My first visit to one in Irun, that was kind of a guess.
unnamed
I wasn’t going to fess up to this, but what the heck. We’re all friends. Also on my first laundromat visit I needed detergent. There was a coin operated machine with some cans in it. Obviously the detergent but pictures of pistachios?  Weird fragrance but I didn’t really care. Put my money in, open the can, and it’s actually pistachios. Found out about a week later that detergent is built into the washer.
Llanes is another old city. There are several Medieval structures that date to the 12th century. This wall (across street from my hotel) is one.
unnamed (1)
The city is pretty much wedged between the mountains and the Cantabrian Sea.
I forgot to mention yesterday that we are now in the Austurias region of Spain.
unnamed (2)
Art or graffiti?  Actually called art here. Giant painted cubes that protect the entrance to the harbor.
unnamed (3)
Think I’m finally starting to get the meal timing down. You can get a real meal (menu of the day) until about 4 then kitchen is closed until 8.
Course 1…Seafood Paella. I like paella because that’s how it’s spelled on menu. Calamara (calamari) has become a favorite as well. Really like to know what I’m getting!!
unnamed (4)
Course 2 I didn’t really know what I was getting. The french fries were great but didn’t touch whatever was under that smelly cheese. Not a fan of any cheese that smells like it’s been rotting for a week!
unnamed (5)
Gotta look on the bright side $12 and as much wine as you can drink. I’m sure it wasn’t great wine but I’m no expert. I drink Bud for cripes sake!
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 18 Peral to Llanes 15 miles (284 miles total)

I was out the door and hiking early (for me) today. Was heading down the trail by 7:45 because rain forecast for later AM.
 
 
In 45 minutes I was into the most incredible 3 miles of hiking I have experienced. If I were to design my own little hiking park, this would be it.
 
 
There was not good markings to get here. Had to cross a road, over some railroad tracks, and through a fence.
 
 
As soon as I saw this, my mind said “Jackpot”!
 
unnamed
 
It was essentially a huge grassy, rock strewn pasture right along the cliffs.
 
unnamed (1)
 
Not sure where the official Camino even ran. There were paths and cow trails heading everywhere. I pretty much just free-ranged it!
 
I see the face of an animal in that rock. Bison?  Lion?  You seein’ it?
 
unnamed (2).jpg
 
I’m guessing these folks were on a trail of some sort. I preferred the rocks next to the cliffs. First good rock scrambling since the AT.
 
unnamed (3).jpg
 
This is what a happy old hiker looks like when he’s found hiker heaven.
 
unnamed (4)
 
I took a crazy number of pictures. If I were buying film and having to pay to develop it (that’s what we did back in the day), it would have been expensive.
 
I think the thing that made it so fun for me was the fact that there wasn’t a truly defined trail. You just roamed this giant park-like setting.
 
 
unnamed (5)
 
Down on the rocks. Up on the grass.
 
unnamed (6)
unnamed (7)
 
I even stumbled across this cave. Didn’t go in more than a few feet as was a bit dark, dank, and scary.
 
unnamed (8)
 
 
All of these photos came from that stretch of approximately 3 miles. Amazing!
 
There were still a few good views in the remaining 10 miles of the day.
 
unnamed (9)
 
I hiked most of those last 10 miles with Luisa, a lovely and brilliant 19 year young lady from Germany. She had been hiking with her dad but he had to return home for work.  She was happy to not be by herself and I really enjoyed her company…plus she could keep pace.
 
She will be going to University in Scotland this fall to study Forensic Anthropology (think CSI). Did I tell you she is brilliant? A very stimulating conversation which I hope she enjoyed as much as I.
 
 
unnamed (10)
 
This is Llanes where I will spend the night. Reserved a room in a hotel that is allegedly right on the beach.
 
unnamed (11)
 
Score!!!
 
unnamed (12)

 

Happy trails and buen Camino!