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In talking to a few people who have walked here before, other upcoming areas of Spain are more welcoming of pilgrims than the Basque region.  Farmers will give you something to drink or some bread (trail magic). Well, I found some Basque trail magic today. Chairs…with a back!  Not quite as euphoric as on AT but I sat for a minute anyway. 

It was a very relaxing walk today after yesterday’s forced march.  The terrain was relatively easy and I just sauntered.

I generally try to not stop and sit early in the day as it is hard to get these old muscles moving again.  Today I ran into some other pilgrims at a nice little bar/cafe. I had met a couple of them yesterday so I stopped. 

Everything is so green and lush. Must be something to do with constant clouds and rain!!

Same weather starting out. Mentally wearing me down and abusing my feet. 

It rained fairly good off and on.  Stop. Take pack off. Put rain jacket on. Put pack back on. Hike. Rain stops. You stop. Take pack off. Take rain jacket off. Put pack back on. Hike. Just keep repeating pretty much all day. 

As I’m getting near Deba, guess what happens. A little bit of sunshine!

When I get to Deba (about 10:00) hotel in my price range is booked. I mope around a little and decide to press on. The trail is going to leave the coast for the next 50 miles but there’s an alburque 3 miles up into the hills that has supposed great view. Weather is nice. Maybe I can tent there. Plan B. 

By the time I get to alburque it’s raining again. They’re supposed to be open at 12:30 but at 12:40 there is no one there. I’m not going to sit here in the rain. 

The weather today was more of the same…high 50’s temp, on and off drizzle.  All day this time. I specifically chose this time of year for warmer weather and less rain!

A good chunk of the morning walk was on roads and paved surfaces. That’s really good for keeping shoes, socks, and feet dry. It’s also nice to walk near some of the country villas. They can really grow geraniums and hydrangea!

A little rock art. 

I would really like to see what some of these views would be like in the sunshine. Maybe someday!

Starting to see some grape vines now. Most of them look relatively young to me. I would guess a newer crop for the area. 

Early in the day I had passed a guy who was wearing sandals. A couple hours later I hear someone behind me. It’s “sandal dude”. Juan Antonio from Córdoba. We walked together for a couple miles. I very seldom do that because I walk at my pace. If you want to walk with me, good luck. He could hike!  At one point there was a fairly steep, but short, hill. As we’re going up, we both keep gradually increasing speed. At top we smiled and fist bumped. It was invigorating and fun! Shortly after that he stopped for a cerveza. I, unlike me, hiked on.

Town of Orio. 

As I was starting to descend into Zarautz, I spied a nice looking golf course. On the way down I planned the perfect photo shoot.   Me teeing off on #1. Pack on. Hat on. Ocean in background. I went around the gate at this private club and soon realized they were closed (Monday). There was a security guard who stopped me by starter shack. Told him what I wanted to do. He apparently didn’t want to see my sweet swing as he politely escorted me back out the gate. Would have been epic!

Zarautz is a great beach town (Kris, add to your notes). Small, great surfing, beach, and bars. What more could you ask for!

I applied for a job trimming ivy at this house. 

Got to Zumia about 4PM. My feet are really sore from the wetness. I don’t think any blisters. 

Staying at my first alburque. Almost every town along the Camino has one or more. They are inexpensive, hostel-type lodging. Usually include communal dinner. 

This one was a nun convent for 500+ years. No food. You pay whatever you want to donate. Does have a shower (no towels or soap).  Dried with paper towels. 

I gave donation of $10. As of now, room to myself. Told volunteer host I would donate another $5 if it stays that way. Wish me luck!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Left Irun in the morning mist which quickly turned into a light rain that lasted all morning. 

Got up on the ridge line and caught first glimpse of ocean.

The area reminds me a lot of Pacific NW. Weather is fairly similar as is some of the coastal terrain. 

Descended down into small town of Pasajes de San Juan. By this time I was pretty wet and very cold.  Had fish & chips for lunch. Literally stuck my fingers in bowl to warm them up. 

Had to take a shot ferry ride across the river. 

Rested up a bit today. A tad sore and stiff but feeling pretty good overall. 

It was crazy. Irun vs some team from Madrid. Packed house. I got standing room only ticket. 

Espinal is a small town with homes that look like they are from the Austrian Alps.

Stayed in a very nice home for $15. Lady who managed it spoke less English than my Spanish. Took a while and lots of laughing but we figured it out!

It had rained during the night and misted all morning making the trail a bit slick. Add on to that the fact that I was determined to make Pamplona today and you have the perfect recipe for a fall(s).

I tried to be very cautious in any rocky area. I even sidestepped down this paved area. I’m sure it’s nice on a dry day but very slippery today. 

Big fan of this river crossing methodology. 

We are in Basque country. Not really sure what that signifies but I’ve been told some of their Spanish words are a bit different from rest of country. I hadn’t noticed!!

On the bus ride from Pamplona I had seen people walking beside road here and thought it looked a bit dangerous. It was.  I had to hit the ditch twice. 

Name that crop. I say sorghum but that’s my “go to” answer when I haven’t a clue. 

This was taken just before Pamplona. New hat but same shirt and shorts. You’ll see my green shirt shortly!  Feel a bit naked without my walking stick. Also, I’m really not that fat. It’s the pack!!

Got to Pamplona shortly before 3 and caught bus to Irun (starting point for Camino del Norte). 

I am tired and a bit sore even though no falls. My reward for making Pamplona in 2 days is a zero day tomorrow. 

Happy trails. Buen Camino.

Cold, damp night in tent. I was eager to hear the birds start chirping. So eager that I was walking at 7AM!  

The climb out of SJPDP is as advertised. Tough. You gain 900meters elevation in the first 7.5 kilometers. Trust me when I say that is steep. I consider a 10% grade to be steep and this was 12%.

Most of the land on the north slope of the Pyrenees is pastureland. Cows, horses, and sheep. Very few trees.

The saving grace on the 12+ mile climb to top was that most of it was paved roads. That steep and long with rocks thrown in would be impossible for all but a select few crazies.

The 14 on the road is 14 kilometers. Note how steep that still is. It was among the least steep!  Stopped to take the picture so I could rest and try to talk pony into giving me a ride. He obviously didn’t speak English!

For profit trail magic at the perfect time…1 mile from top! 

Last 1/2 mile to top. At this point I was Just About Dead Pete!

A rancher’s emergency shelter near the top.

The other side of the mountain. Some trees and a gradual descent.

Feel pretty good about 18 miles today. We’ll see what tomorrow brings. 
Happy trails (or, as they say here, Buen Camino)!!

Planes, trains, automobiles, and buses. I made it to my starting point!

Only one bad experience on the way here. I had to give up my walking stick that was with me every step of the AT. I was charged $100 to check it on Norwegian Air in Orlando. That was bad but I paid. When I got to London and changed airlines Easy Jet was going to charge me another $60. That really irked me because I knew I would face the same situation on return flights. I left it in London. I’m bummed but will survive!

Spent last night in Madrid. Train this morning to Pamplona and then bus to SJPDP. 

Probably 30 pilgrims (hikers) on the bus. Some have really large packs. I thought mine would be considered large since carrying tent but looks like it’s about average. 

SJPDP is a neat little alpine town that is filled with hikers. It’s just across the border into Spain.  

I am tenting in the community campground. It’s a few hundred yards from the beginning of trail. 

Tomorrow I will go over the Pyrenees. Snowed there Monday and (Mom, stop reading) they had to rescue someone up there. 

Anxious to get going!

Happy trails!!

I will be leaving for Spain on May 20.  I’ve been working on updating the website and will be ready to start taking pledges for this trek in the next few days.  I’m tired of preparing (too much work!) and ready to just start walking.

The Camino de Santiago is one of the oldest and most famous trails in the world.  It is not really a single trail but a network of hundreds of routes leading to the shrine of the apostle Saint James the Great in the cathedral of Santiago de Compostela in Galicia in northwest Spain. Pilgrims have traveled there since 812 AD.

One of the great proponents of the pilgrimage in the 12th century was Pope Callixtus II, who started the Compostelan Holy Years. The official guide in those times was the Codex Calixtinus. Published around 1140, the 5th book of the Codex is still considered the definitive source for many modern guidebooks.

The pilgrim route is a very good thing, but it is narrow. For the road which leads us to life is narrow; on the other hand, the road which leads to death is broad and spacious.
The pilgrim route is for those who are good: it is the lack of vices, the thwarting of the body, the increase of virtues, pardon for sins, sorrow for the penitent, the road of the righteous, love of the saints, faith in the resurrection and the reward of the blessed, a separation from hell, the protection of the heavens.

It takes us away from luscious foods, it makes gluttonous fatness vanish, it restrains voluptuousness, constrains the appetites of the flesh which attack the fortress of the soul, cleanses the spirit, leads us to contemplation, humbles the haughty, raises up the lowly, loves poverty.

It hates the reproach of those fueled by greed. It loves, on the other hand, the person who gives to the poor. It rewards those who live simply and do good works; And, on the other hand, it does not pluck those who are stingy and wicked from the claws of sin.

Codex Calixtinus (Published around 1140 AD)