Category: Camino de Santiago

As I awoke this morning I looked up out of my tent and realized 2 things:  (1) I’m glad I’m not into rock climbing; and (2) If there’s an earthquake right now I’m screwed.

Another nice day for walking. They seem to be planting lots of eucalyptus trees around here. They smell great and love that blue/grey hue. 

Trail started going up a dirt toad and away from my blue dots. Scenic but disconcerting. 

I’m seeing a random yellow arrow and the road makes no turns so I keep going. 

Starting to get a little nervous. I am now convinced the guy who led me this way had a bit of a grin when he sent me on my way. There are random chain saws revving through the forest. All I can think of is Spanish “Deliverance”.

I was really having a bad day at this point. As I got to bottom of hill I saw that machine had left a huge mud hole. Should be OK if I just follow tracks.  Not so much. 

Laredo (not TX, Austin Bonner!), a nice resort town with a huge beach. 

Getting close to my destination of Noja (Kris,notes).  Anxious to get to this small surfing town.

Very fun climb with view back to Laredo (way in distance). 

The other side of the mountain!

I was so excited by vistas and climb I decided I was going in ocean. Got down to water line and hardly noticed the 5’7” gorgeous brunette young lady with a butterfly tattoo on her ankle and a pierced bellybutton who was topless. For some reason, she screamed in horror just as I was stripping down to my Tommy Johns.  Not exactly sure what scared her.

Hiked final 2 miles on the beach. For a day that started pretty bad, it ended fantastic. Remember that next time your day totally blows and it’s not even mid-morning. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Today I made a totally unplanned early stop. Just because I could. 

I may have missed the running of the bulls in Pamplona (July 6 if interested) but I witnessed the sauntering of the sheep in Castro Urdiales. Guy is a true urban cowboy. Herding them down the road with his car. 

Ever in your life come across threesomes that just make zero sense?  I just don’t understand what those nice bovine would be doing with that jackass. On top of that, this is the worst pastureland I have ever seen.  The picture does not represent how steep that hillside/cliff is down to ocean. 

I ended up stopping today at base of big hill on the left. 

Got in the water a couple times. It was cold. Guessing low 60 degrees. Wanted to body surf but it was too cold for me. If that guy in picture rolls 2 feet to his left he’ll roll another 50 feet. Straight down. 

My tent spot for the night. Not real scenic but great location. 

I had a lot of fun with the nude beach thing in yesterday’s blog!  I won’t mess with you today… but if you look really hard…

Don’t recall ever seeing stadium style seating at a beach. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Some pretty funky architecture in Bilbao. Some of the bridges are supposed to be renowned but I wasn’t that impressed.

I walked alongside that river for about 10 miles. Went from nice looking, modern to urban industrial sprawl. Not a nice walk. I went as fast as I could walk. 

The river must end at the ocean but the Camino crossed it and ascended before I could find out. Next was 8 miles mostly along a bike path. Easy but boring stroll. I, again, went as fast as I could. On pavement like this, I will jog on the downhills. It’s actually easier on your joints. You just have to be able to control the speed. It would be bad to take a spill.

Finally a sliver of ocean up ahead!

There are 2 small towns, La Arena and Pobena (Kris…notes), within a half mile of each other on either side of this beach. Very nice towns and beach. If you zoom in you can see the nude sun bathers. 

This pic is looking back to the beach from the hill you didn’t notice in other beach photo because you were zooming in.

We have now left the Basque country and are in Cantabria.  I haven’t noticed any changes. Von, can you provide any insight?

This looks really sketchy. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Woke up today to a clear blue, no cloud in the sky day. Yes!!

I have been remiss in reminding people who are following that I am raising money for charity with this hike also. In the past couple of days I’ve had someone new to this hike and someone who followed the AT adventure from day 1 ask how to pledge. My bad.

To pledge, go to at-pete.com and click on Pledge page. You can read about charities on Charity page. While there you should check out the Appalachian Trail page. I think it’s kind of funny!!  Now…back to the sunny day. 

Reminded me of a San Diego morning. Absolutely gorgeous. 

The Camino is already beginning to dry up. Another good day of sun and it will be perfect.

The morning was spent ascending out of Gernika and into the forest. It was my kind of weather for hiking and I was literally skipping up the Camino. 

I walked next to so many small farms and homes today. If I see someone I always wave, smile, and say hola. About 5 miles in I came across trail magic. A very pretty lady, about my age, was at the end of her driveway with a table full of goods. There was change there so I assumed she was taking donations. I had just 5 minutes earlier been thinking how good watermelon is on a day like today. Jackpot!  I tried to take her picture but she refused. We had a nice laugh (international language) and I was off. 

It is really easy to walk when you’ve just had a slice of watermelon, it’s a sunny day, and the Camino looks like this!

When I first saw the brownish tint near the tops of the trees below, I was assuming some sort of disease was infecting them. When I got close, I realized it was a forest of Eucalyptus!  It’s just a San Diego day here in Spain!

I had lunch in Lerrabetzu. It’s kind of the center of the Basque resistance (if that’s the right word). Saw lots of graffiti coming into town. Most about political prisoners. “If anyone deserves freedom it’s those who fought for it”. Wish I knew more about this. 

The end of the day was a long descent into Bilbao. 

In talking to a few people who have walked here before, other upcoming areas of Spain are more welcoming of pilgrims than the Basque region.  Farmers will give you something to drink or some bread (trail magic). Well, I found some Basque trail magic today. Chairs…with a back!  Not quite as euphoric as on AT but I sat for a minute anyway. 

It was a very relaxing walk today after yesterday’s forced march.  The terrain was relatively easy and I just sauntered.

I generally try to not stop and sit early in the day as it is hard to get these old muscles moving again.  Today I ran into some other pilgrims at a nice little bar/cafe. I had met a couple of them yesterday so I stopped. 

Everything is so green and lush. Must be something to do with constant clouds and rain!!

Same weather starting out. Mentally wearing me down and abusing my feet. 

It rained fairly good off and on.  Stop. Take pack off. Put rain jacket on. Put pack back on. Hike. Rain stops. You stop. Take pack off. Take rain jacket off. Put pack back on. Hike. Just keep repeating pretty much all day. 

As I’m getting near Deba, guess what happens. A little bit of sunshine!

When I get to Deba (about 10:00) hotel in my price range is booked. I mope around a little and decide to press on. The trail is going to leave the coast for the next 50 miles but there’s an alburque 3 miles up into the hills that has supposed great view. Weather is nice. Maybe I can tent there. Plan B. 

By the time I get to alburque it’s raining again. They’re supposed to be open at 12:30 but at 12:40 there is no one there. I’m not going to sit here in the rain. 

The weather today was more of the same…high 50’s temp, on and off drizzle.  All day this time. I specifically chose this time of year for warmer weather and less rain!

A good chunk of the morning walk was on roads and paved surfaces. That’s really good for keeping shoes, socks, and feet dry. It’s also nice to walk near some of the country villas. They can really grow geraniums and hydrangea!

A little rock art. 

I would really like to see what some of these views would be like in the sunshine. Maybe someday!

Starting to see some grape vines now. Most of them look relatively young to me. I would guess a newer crop for the area. 

Early in the day I had passed a guy who was wearing sandals. A couple hours later I hear someone behind me. It’s “sandal dude”. Juan Antonio from Córdoba. We walked together for a couple miles. I very seldom do that because I walk at my pace. If you want to walk with me, good luck. He could hike!  At one point there was a fairly steep, but short, hill. As we’re going up, we both keep gradually increasing speed. At top we smiled and fist bumped. It was invigorating and fun! Shortly after that he stopped for a cerveza. I, unlike me, hiked on.

Town of Orio. 

As I was starting to descend into Zarautz, I spied a nice looking golf course. On the way down I planned the perfect photo shoot.   Me teeing off on #1. Pack on. Hat on. Ocean in background. I went around the gate at this private club and soon realized they were closed (Monday). There was a security guard who stopped me by starter shack. Told him what I wanted to do. He apparently didn’t want to see my sweet swing as he politely escorted me back out the gate. Would have been epic!

Zarautz is a great beach town (Kris, add to your notes). Small, great surfing, beach, and bars. What more could you ask for!

I applied for a job trimming ivy at this house. 

Got to Zumia about 4PM. My feet are really sore from the wetness. I don’t think any blisters. 

Staying at my first alburque. Almost every town along the Camino has one or more. They are inexpensive, hostel-type lodging. Usually include communal dinner. 

This one was a nun convent for 500+ years. No food. You pay whatever you want to donate. Does have a shower (no towels or soap).  Dried with paper towels. 

I gave donation of $10. As of now, room to myself. Told volunteer host I would donate another $5 if it stays that way. Wish me luck!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Left Irun in the morning mist which quickly turned into a light rain that lasted all morning. 

Got up on the ridge line and caught first glimpse of ocean.

The area reminds me a lot of Pacific NW. Weather is fairly similar as is some of the coastal terrain. 

Descended down into small town of Pasajes de San Juan. By this time I was pretty wet and very cold.  Had fish & chips for lunch. Literally stuck my fingers in bowl to warm them up. 

Had to take a shot ferry ride across the river. 

Rested up a bit today. A tad sore and stiff but feeling pretty good overall. 

It was crazy. Irun vs some team from Madrid. Packed house. I got standing room only ticket.