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As we leave the ocean heading to Santiago de Compostela, we have to cross some mountain (big hills) ranges. After that I’m guessing we’ll get to the plains where the rain in Spain mainly falls. 

The “Hola” smile of the day comes from a lady who actually flagged me down. She was at a small church and encouraged me to stop and go inside. 

I put some clothes on, took my hat off, and went in. Amazing!

The mountain walking was really quite pleasant. I enjoy the exertion of the hills and you can see for miles. 

Lots of agricultural. Virtually all corn. Apparently they haven’t heard of soy beans. 

Only 2 rooms rented tonight. A Korean couple and Just Pete. Included in the lodging is a home cooked dinner and breakfast. The dinner was very good. Salad, some noodly type soup and Spanish tortilla. A Spanish tortilla is of no relation to a Mexican tortilla. In Spain it’s really more like an omelette. Tonight’s was eggs and potatoes. Really good. 

Today began with a steady mist. Forecast called for rain so I’ll take the mist!

Not as many people out and about when the weather is a bit crappy. Thought I may have a difficult time with my “Hola” smile until I ran into this lady.

Got back near the ocean later in the morning. Just in time for mist to change to rain.

Got to walk along the edge of the cliffs for several miles. I veered off the path of the Camino to peer over the edge. Fun but really got my shoes quite wet which is no good!

The cliffs are pretty steep…as in straight down 50 feet. It would be a very painful fall if you slipped. If you miraculously survived the fall, you’d probably be there for a while. At least until the tide came in. Bottom line…there is no way a fall here has a good ending.

Tomorrow we will be taking a big left turn and heading inland. It’s 124 miles from here to Santiago de Compostela, which is the destination for pilgrims on all the different Camino’s.

There are about as many pilgrims arriving in Santiago each day at this time of year as through hike the Appalachian Trail in a year. I must confess that arriving in Santiago doesn’t really excite me. Some pilgrims will think that is total blasphemy so I only tell you.

I prefer this solitude. Saw no one else for a good 2 hours today. The fact that it was raining pretty good may have been a factor.

It was a wee bit scary getting this picture!

We’ll be away from the coast for about 170 miles. My plan is to do some big mile days through this stretch so I can take my time once I get back to the coast.

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When it’s raining, operating my phone becomes quite a challenge. The screen gets wet. My hands are wet. None of the “buttons” want to work. Thankfully the Camino was easy to follow through here as getting my navigation app open wasn’t going to happen. Missed a few good photo ops.

Did get dry enough to get this casa on the hill. Nice!

Stopped in a small beach bar to escape the rain. The bar would be incredible on a nice day. It was just outside a really small town (Porcia) with a view similar to this.

I rolled into Tapia de Casariego about 1:30. Cool town built on the cliffs and down to the ocean.

Spent 2 or 3 hours at a bar/restaurant where I had dinner and a beer…well maybe more than one. When I was leaving, bartender gave me a couple of tee shirts. Not really sure how to take that?!

Almost forgot to mention that my tomorrow (your today) is Naked Hiking Day. As you’re reading this, there’s a good chance I’m sauntering down the Camino in my birthday suit.

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Our intrepid weather reporter braved the elements again today. The Weather Channel should hire this dude…just sayin!

I really want to party with him some day.

It was supposed to rain today. One good thing about “rain” here is there is moisture falling from the sky. Where we live in FL, when it rains…it rains. It may only last 15 minutes, but I definitely have a do it yourself ark kit ready to go.

Today was lots of crop land views and walking. I like that because that’s what my people in South Dakota do. May be different crops and WAY smaller fields here but it’s farming.

We were up on the ridge again today. Sometimes I go a long way without looking to my left.

I really wish that I could let you inside my brain for some of these long stretches of time. Yeah, scratch that. Not a good idea!

It really does amaze me how similar the economies of these small towns are to the economies of so many small towns near where I grew up in South Dakota. There are no longer schools in most of them but they have a church (or 2), a bar (or 2), and lots of friendly people.

This dude totally looked like a stuffed animal. I was ready to shoot baskets on an impossible hoop at the fair to take him home.

If we were on the AT, I know we’d be going straight up this hill.

Fortunately we’re not on the AT and we’re heading here instead.

This asparagus spear could feed a village.

It’s actually some cactus flower…just FYI!

The “Hola” smile. This “thing” is getting bigger than a “thing”!

This is just a tease as to a Just Pete Challenge we’ll get going after I’m home. I’ve warned you that I have too much time to think!

Interesting dinner. First lesson…eat just before kitchen closes at 4. Had really good soup of the day (chickpea and ham). As much as I could eat. Plus wine. As much as I could drink.

After I had finished eating, a beer salesman came in. The sales call took place right around me with him and 5 people from restaurant.

I try to pay attention to my surroundings and already knew who owner/manager was. Sharply dressed. White long sleeve dress shirt. Employees well dressed in black golf-type shirts. Salesman not so much. Wrinkled yellow golf-type shirt with burn hole in center.

I had 0 business getting involved, but couldn’t stop myself. Already knew owner didn’t speak English but he was standing next to me so I typed “If he was a good sales person, he would be dressed better than that” into Google Translate. The app types out the Spanish translation.

These translations don’t always work but I handed my phone to him. This translation must have come across because he lit up with a huge grin, gave me a thumbs up, and high 5’d me! Trifecta!!

If you are in sales, please take heed. As for me, I got a free shot of Austurian cider. This region of Spain is famous for that. They also do some really trick pouring of it!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Overcast and cloudy this morning. Rain was in forecast for afternoon so I decided my destination for the day would be Luarca.

The morning hiking was through pasturelands and a small bit of forest. I knew the ocean was only a couple miles away but too foggy to see.

I really need to cut back on my daily/weekly mileage. I’ve got opposite problem of most people I meet. Plenty of time and not enough miles.

Fly home in 36 days so 35 potential days to walk. 475 or so miles to go on my route. That’s about 14 miles per day. That’s like a part-time job! Sure I’ll figure something out.

Got rained on a bit mid-day. Just enough to make you damp and chilly.

Walked a bit, really more like avoided the rain, with 2 ladies. One is a cardiologist in Hungary. The other a former product manager in the fashion industry from Italy. The Hungarian got bed bugs in an alburque last night. I keep saying that I’m going to stay more in alburques but now, probably not!

Sun was out by the time I got to Luarca.

Luarca is a quaint fishing village nestled between a mountain and the sea.

Ran into the 2 ladies I met earlier. We went out to eat together at a nice seaside restaurant. It’s funny how you can meet someone along the AT or Camino for 15 minutes and then you’re friends. I don’t even remember their names!

The meal was great. I had seafood paella. Total bill for 3 with a bottle of wine was $34. What a deal?

Met the “Hola” smile of the day near there. She was more than willing to pose for me!

Overall a pretty quiet day.

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Great day of hiking today. Little haze and humidity but trail and scenery were muy buen!

Most of today the Camino avoided roads and was on trails. Lots of walking through forests, up and down hills, and across streams. Much more similar to AT hiking…except 0 falls. I shouldn’t even say that. Watch me wipe out tomorrow!

This is the Quinta de El Pito, known also as the Versailles of Austurias. They wouldn’t let me any closer than this.

The amount of money that was spent on churches back in those days flabbergasts me. Seems like that it was more about empire building than sharing the gospel and helping your fellow man.

The “Hola” smile of the day goes to a fellow pilgrim. Roberto is 82 years old. Told me he tries to make 9-12 miles/day. Told him I just hope to be upright at that age! Great attitude!

One of the unique (and spectacular) things today was that one minute you’re walking through a forest of eucalyptus trees and bamboo, then you get to an opening and there’s the ocean.

You can really see the haze up in the mountains. All of the ups and downs combined with the humidity to make for lots of perspiration. I won’t tell you how many days since last laundry but wouldn’t be surprised if you can smell me while reading this!

The highlight of the day happened about noon as I passed through a small village. An older couple were out attempting to pick lemons from a large lemon tree next to their house. He had a fruit grabbing tool and was reaching as far as he could while she held on to his belt loop to keep him from toppling over.

I stopped and, in my best Spanish mime, pointed at myself, then the grabber tool, and then the tree. They were more than happy for the help!

I picked until they told me to stop (just when I was getting good at it!). They were both so grateful. As I was getting ready to leave they kept asking me something. Of course I couldn’t understand. They may have been asking me to stay for lunch or could have been asking me to marry their daughter. We’ll never know!

If you’ve got an old bicycle sitting around (doesn’t everyone?), here’s an idea. This was theme of the town. Saw 5 or 6 of them painted and potted.

These cows have it made. Lush pastures and amazing views. What more could they possibly ask for?

I don’t get tired of the views. Sometimes today I got tired of the climbing but never the views.

That giant alligator swimming by looks almost like a rock formation.

Today (and lots of other days) I really appreciated how fortunate I am to be physically able to do this. There is only one way to get to a view like this and that is to walk.

Spending tonight in upstairs bedroom of a lady’s house for $20. She’s doing my laundry for $6. Hope the smell doesn’t knock her out!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

A gorgeous, sunny day with temps in low 70’s. Nice!

Climbed out of Salinas up to the ridge line. Along the way I met the “Hola” smile of the day. He doesn’t move quickly but at least he’s moving!

I get such enjoyment out of this Hola bit. I will sometimes tell them that I am the “Hola Hombre”. I’ve always wanted to be an hombre and they usually laugh so it’s all good!

I don’t know what this town is but it looks pretty nice from up on the ridge. It’s about 2 or 3 miles west of Salinas. I’ll award a gold star to first one to figure it out.

Seems like today, I’m just being teased with glimpses of the ocean. Thankfully the scenery is much better than yesterday.

Everything is so lush and green wherever you look. I’ve not been to the southern coast of Spain but I’ve been told it gets much less rainfall and is significantly warmer than here on the north.

One of my aggravations (aside from meal times) here is coffee. I don’t drink it but when they make it there is a huge process involved. They grind some up, put it in this machine that fizzes and spits, slowly enough comes out to fill a cup that is slightly bigger than a shot glass, and then they add milk or slowly pour over ice.

This may not sound like a big deal to you but when you’ve been walking for 3 straight hours and just want a simple coke it is painful. Each shot takes nearly a minute to make. Today I stopped at a place, watched the waitress make 4 of these things, knew she was making 3 or 4 more, and walked out. I had to walk another 30 minutes to next bar/cafe to get my coke. I sure showed them!

I was much happier after I got my coke but I am really beginning to dislike those coffee machines!!

They are not afraid of using bold colors on their houses.

Walked near this river for quite some time. It must start from those hills.

It eventually meanders its way to the ocean.

Remember those storage shed type things on stilts I had a picture of a few days ago. Got some information on them. They are called horreos and were/are used to store corn and grain crops. Virtually all of them, including this one, are more than 100 years old.

This one is at a family run lodging establishment and they’ve turned it into a room.

I stayed in it. Very nicely done. Ignore my crap strewn around the place but notice the sign above bed. I thought that was quite funny!

Good place to spend Fathers Day!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Happy Fathers Day to all of you dads…especially mine!  Hope you have a great day. 

Got a late start today. Watched a bit of US Open last night/this AM. I can get live coverage on my phone but leaders tee off after 11PM here. 

Today was pretty ugly scenery for the most part. I was warned about this long stretch of industrial vistas…and they were right!

Began with 2-3 miles of urban/retail walk out of Gijon. Straight out this street past retail stores of every type. This was one time I was glad Kris isn’t with me. We’d still be there…and my pack would be 10 lbs heavier but she would have gotten some great deals!!

After getting out of Gijon the Camino climbed up to a mesa-like area. Flat and nice hiking. This was a multi-use area. Can’t tell from pic but that horse was moving. 

From there it was down into a valley. Lots of grassland that they will hay and some larger areas of tilled land. 

Not sure what they do with all the hay. Cows, sheep, and horses seem to have plenty to eat in their pastures. 

The next 8 miles was terrible. Road walking next to factories (most of them abandoned and falling apart) and burnt shells of buildings. I didn’t take a single picture. Too gross and I was walking as fast as I could. 

Finally got out of that crap and reached the town of Aviles. It was a nice afternoon and I could have been talked into stopping for a beer in the plaza but only 3 more miles to the smaller surf town of Salinas. 

Today’s “Hola” smile is from a stop for a coke before I got to Salinas. I must have looked pretty bad because he was initially laughing at (not with) me. We conversed through a waitress who translated for us. He reminded me of a South Dakota farmer. He gave me a big (look at size of his hands) handshake and a buen Camino as I left. 

This is the view of Salinas before descending into town.

Salinas has a few nice restaurants along the malecon (thanks, Von!). It seems a bit more upscale than some of the other surf towns I’ve stopped in. 

This is my abode for the evening. My room is that upper right portal. If you zoom in, you can see that the portal is open. I was pretty certain that I would not be able to figure out how to close it but I surprised myself. Go, me!

This restaurants having their kitchens closed from 4-8PM is a pain in my butt. I got to town at 4. Was hungry and not going to sit around until 8. 

Went to the supermarket and got my own dinner. Bon appetit!

Happy trails and buen Camino!

The campground I stayed in was quite nice. I had a nice lot and electrical hookup just like my neighbors. Probably paid the same too!

The AT markings were much easier to follow than those marking the Camino. I used the navigation app on my phone a few times per day on AT. Here, a few times per hour. 

The Camino is marked by scallop shells and yellow arrows.  Sometimes yellow arrows indicate a turn but take you to an alburque or bar instead of keeping you on Camino. Frustrating. I’ve grown a bit wary of the yellow arrows. 

Other times, like here, not a single marking. Left fork?  Seems to be where road is heading. Right fork?  Feels like right direction. Center?  Path through a park which would make total sense. 

If you picked B, you get a gold star. I picked the path through the park. Fortunately I was able to easily rejoin… this time. 

Most of the walk today was actually on nicely groomed dirt paths. Went by park which had about 50 of these very large, very old, and very gnarled trees. No clue what kind of trees they are. Bernie Wenzig?

Came across a 9-hole municipal golf course. Saw 2 older guys chatting in parking lot. Tried to convey to them that I needed a club, a ball, and a photographer. They got it after about 5 minutes. 

Quite amazing that swing isn’t playing at Pebble Beach this weekend. 

Heard a big noise like recess at an elementary school up ahead. Rounded a corner and scores of kids heading at me. 

God bless teachers. There had to be at least 200 kids and about 15 teachers. A couple of the teachers saw me smiling and laughing and smiled back while rolling their eyes and shaking their head!

Look up and to the right you will see the mob they had to control. Some trying to run, others not wanting to walk, all of them talking. All I can say is it takes a special person to be a teacher. You have all of my respect and appreciation.

The city of Gijon. This is directly across street from my hotel. 

Gijon is a coastal city with wide, sandy beaches. 

There is also a nice pedestrian pathway along the beach. 

This masterpiece is made of wine bottles. Hundreds of them. Very fragile piece of artwork I would think. 

I’ve been about 25 days without a Budweiser now. Stumbled into a place today that actually got a delivery of Bud while I was sitting there. Gotta have me one. 

I’ve had Europeans tell me for years that Bud tastes like “piss”. I now see why they say that. Local beer is higher alcohol content and it’s about 2/3 the price. It was like me trying to drink a light beer in the US. I’d say it tasted like piss but not really sure what piss tastes like. 

Don’t worry, I still can’t wait to get home and have a cold Bud. I haven’t gone totally mad!

The “Hola” smile of the day. 

All I can think of at this statue of Octavio Augusto is “All this marching and fighting and all we have to show for it is Poo”.  I apologize to Poo’ers. I’ll try to stop. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

P.S.  Happy Fathers Day Eve. Enjoy!

Your today is my tomorrow. Very deep and thought provoking, huh?! Probably should be a country song.

I write this on Th. You will read on Friday. My tomorrow/your today happens to be the 33rd wedding anniversary for Kris and I. Happy anniversary. I even remembered flowers. Love you!

Today was mostly cloudy and about 60 degrees. Good walking weather.

This is the jumping off point for the Camino Primitivo. I’ll be heading straight toward Gijon.

We started out the day walking through the valley. I’ve seen lots of farm animals but there is virtually zero wildlife. Saw 4 small rabbits today and had seen 1 deer while on train from Madrid to Pamplona. Guess that’s what thousands of years of civilization does to the wildlife.

We eventually began heading up out of the valley.

The people here seem to be exceptional gardeners. So many beautiful yards.

The climb up out of the valley went on and on… and on. The most ups and downs since the day I did equivalent of 300 something flights of stairs. Had to stop and catch my breath a few times!

Right at the top…trail magic. Muy perfecto. Even chairs with backs! Guy said he’s up here every day from 9 until 3. Most of the “magic stations” around here have donation boxes. I had a coke and some trail mix. Wanted to give him a couple Euros. Only had a little over one in change and then large bills. Gave him the Euros plus a US $1 bill. He was excited. Had never seen a dollar bill before.

What goes up… must come down. Heading back down to the small village below.

My “Hola” smile of the day. He was out surveying his sheep. He had a bigger smile until I got the camera on him!

I first saw these little buildings set up off the ground a few days ago near the coast. Thought they looked like cool little beach bungalows. Have seen quite a few more today. Think they’re storage bins for their crops. A lot of apple orchards around here. That’s my theory. If I find someone who speaks good English, I’ll confirm. Too complicated a question for my Spanish vocabulary.

After that valley we headed up…again. Going over another range of hills. I am declaring this 3rd most difficult day of hiking yet after 300 flight day and Pyrenees climb on day 1.

My plan was to stop after 14 miles at a campground in Deva. That will leave me a short walk (5 miles) into Gijon tomorrow.

After the second range, I could see the coast again. That’s Gijon in the distance.

The campground at Deva also has an alburque for pilgrims. I chose to stay in my tent. They charged people $7 for a bunk in the alburque and $17 for me to pitch my tent. Whaaat? Feeling a little foolish but I won’t be listening to any snoring.

Happy trails and buen Camino!