Day 21 Vega de Ribadesella to Villaviciosa 20 miles (327 miles total)

I’ve now hiked more than 2,500 miles in my hiking “career”. My goal is to surpass 3,000 miles by the end of this trek. That will happen.

My other goal is to have raised more than $100,000 over those miles for the charities I hike for. Little nervous on that one. As of now, we’re about $5,000 short. If you’ve been procrastinating, now is the time!!

Loved my little tent spot last night. First opportunity to tent where I could hear the surf.

Cloudy and a bit cool starting out this AM!

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I’ve got my walking pace pretty dialed in. I go 5 Km’s/hr (3 mph). On the AT it was usually 2.5 mph.

I go pretty fast but I also get temporarily disoriented once in a while. Yesterday I went past the same person 3 times. Missed a couple turns. Sometimes the signage is a bit confusing.

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Today was the best I’ve felt physically. Been having a pain in my left shin each morning that usually goes away in an hour. Think it’s shin splint from too much pavement. Today there was very little pavement and no pain.

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I’ve decided I won’t be leaving the coast and the Camino del Norte for the mountains and Camino Primitivo.

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It has been cool enough for me here along the coast. I’m pretty sure I don’t have appropriate attire for the mountains.

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Plus I don’t need to prove to myself that I can hike up and over mountains. Been there…done that. If I feel the need to do that again I’ll just get on Pacific Crest Trail. Nothing like that planned…just to be clear.

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Did I remember to mention that I am really enjoying the coastal views?

The last half of the day was up in the hills. It was a nice change of scenery. Reminded me a bit of the AT.

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My “Hola” pic of the day. Doesn’t she have the prettiest smile? She thought I was loco for wanting to take her pic.

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This next lady offers coffee and drinks to pilgrims as they pass by her house. I had a coke and chatted with her for 15 minutes. She forced me to use Spanish. That was good practice for me. When I was leaving I said “Muchos gracias” in my best Spanish. She looked at me with a twinkle in her eye and said “You’re welcome”. We both had a good laugh.

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I’ve been on a mission last 2 days to make it to Villaviciosa.

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I’ve got a birthday party to get to and I’m excited to meet up with some of my friends.

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I made it!  One of the good things about being an old guy out here is that the young ladies feel sorry for you and let you hang out with them.

Meet my posse! Left to right…Jessica, Deniella, me, Sally, Scout, and Naomi. It was Deniella’s birthday. She is from Mexico. The other 4 just graduated from college in Utah. They had been roommates for a couple of years and have a great time together.

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As you can imagine, I had a blast. If you’re reading this ladies, thanks for including me. Hope our paths cross again.
Happy trails and buen Camino!

 

 

My Bad

Last Friday, June 7, I made a big error.

It’s difficult to post videos to blog and I rarely do a video because it takes up too much memory on my phone.

On that Friday, I posted a video to Instagram and Facebook thinking it was just some stupid bit.

The reviews told a different story:

“I believe the Sangria is flowing in your head with Bob Dylan.”

“Apparently you scored some weed before shooting this video.”

“English. Spanish. Jamaican. I’m digging the accent, mon.”

“What kind of happy pills are you taking, buddy?”

“You are a goober mi amigo.”

I erased it from my phone after posting and feel badly that some of my loyal followers have not been able to see this masterpiece!!

If you are interested, I believe there are 3 options:

1. Try this link. May need FB.

2. Find me on FB (Jeff Peterson…there’s probably only 83,247 of those) and look for video post on June 5.

3. Find me on Instagram (just_pete99). Video has my face predominantly displayed.

If none of those work, my humblest apologies.

Just Pete

Day 20 Llanes to Vega de Ribadesella 23 miles (307 miles total)

Pretty crazy day that began as I tried to checkout from hotel. They don’t take your credit card at checkin. Weird. I was looking to get moving about 8AM as I just last night heard about a birthday party for a fellow pilgrim Wednesday eve in a town nearly 40 miles away.

Well, reception desk didn’t open until 9:00. I left a nice note telling them to charge credit card which reservation was made under. Hopefully they understood. If not, that’s why I am rotting in a Spanish prison.
It was drizzly at first but soon gave way to a rainbow.
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First town I come to after Llanes is Poo. Seriously, who names a town Poo?  I’m imagining some Roman General who was beaten back at Llanes going “Oh, Poo”.  And what is your team mascot?  Poo Bears?  How menacing.
As payback for all my bad jokes about Poo, it started raining…hard…with some sleet thrown in. I didn’t mean it Poo.
We got back to the coast and the rain pretty much stopped. It was still cold, however.
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It then began to clear again and another rainbow. Look really closely, it’s there.
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It’s one of those rain jacket on and off all day. Still seeing some nice scenery, though.
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Then things got really weird in a fun way. Walking next to 2 guys who were Americans. Asked where they were from. Jacksonville.
Told them I was from Ponte Vedra (just south of Jax). Had a good chuckle over that. They then told me they were section hiking the AT 2 years ago in southern VA and had met a guy from Ponte Vedra who was thru-hiking the AT.  Pretty sure I know who that was. Big laughs over that. Meet Conner and Steve (I think…maybe Dave).
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The day kind of “normalized” after that. Little sun. More great scenery.
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Just keep following the path.
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These are some serious hydrangea “trees”.
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This is obviously home to an artist. There were 4 of these very nice paintings on walls and doors.   Pretty incredible, huh?
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Vega de Ribadesella is a very small surf town. Not even sure there’s a hotel but I know there are 3 bars and some nice views.
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Sleeping in my tent tonight about 100 yds up from the surf.   Kind of noisy in a good sort of way!
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Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 19 Llanes 0 miles (284 miles total)

Decided to take a day off. Running (actually walking) a bit ahead of targeted pace. Plus it’s smelling like laundry time and I’ve got a sweet room on the beach.
Missing a pair of my Darn Tuff socks. Crap!  I can see losing one, but the pair??  Guess we’ll see how tough these socks are. Actually not worried about that. Worried about their odor resistance and having to put wet socks on after a day walking in the rain. Double crap!!
I’m getting this laundry thing figured out. Lavadora is washing machine. Secadora is dryer. My first visit to one in Irun, that was kind of a guess.
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I wasn’t going to fess up to this, but what the heck. We’re all friends. Also on my first laundromat visit I needed detergent. There was a coin operated machine with some cans in it. Obviously the detergent but pictures of pistachios?  Weird fragrance but I didn’t really care. Put my money in, open the can, and it’s actually pistachios. Found out about a week later that detergent is built into the washer.
Llanes is another old city. There are several Medieval structures that date to the 12th century. This wall (across street from my hotel) is one.
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The city is pretty much wedged between the mountains and the Cantabrian Sea.
I forgot to mention yesterday that we are now in the Austurias region of Spain.
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Art or graffiti?  Actually called art here. Giant painted cubes that protect the entrance to the harbor.
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Think I’m finally starting to get the meal timing down. You can get a real meal (menu of the day) until about 4 then kitchen is closed until 8.
Course 1…Seafood Paella. I like paella because that’s how it’s spelled on menu. Calamara (calamari) has become a favorite as well. Really like to know what I’m getting!!
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Course 2 I didn’t really know what I was getting. The french fries were great but didn’t touch whatever was under that smelly cheese. Not a fan of any cheese that smells like it’s been rotting for a week!
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Gotta look on the bright side $12 and as much wine as you can drink. I’m sure it wasn’t great wine but I’m no expert. I drink Bud for cripes sake!
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 18 Peral to Llanes 15 miles (284 miles total)

I was out the door and hiking early (for me) today. Was heading down the trail by 7:45 because rain forecast for later AM.
 
 
In 45 minutes I was into the most incredible 3 miles of hiking I have experienced. If I were to design my own little hiking park, this would be it.
 
 
There was not good markings to get here. Had to cross a road, over some railroad tracks, and through a fence.
 
 
As soon as I saw this, my mind said “Jackpot”!
 
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It was essentially a huge grassy, rock strewn pasture right along the cliffs.
 
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Not sure where the official Camino even ran. There were paths and cow trails heading everywhere. I pretty much just free-ranged it!
 
I see the face of an animal in that rock. Bison?  Lion?  You seein’ it?
 
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I’m guessing these folks were on a trail of some sort. I preferred the rocks next to the cliffs. First good rock scrambling since the AT.
 
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This is what a happy old hiker looks like when he’s found hiker heaven.
 
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I took a crazy number of pictures. If I were buying film and having to pay to develop it (that’s what we did back in the day), it would have been expensive.
 
I think the thing that made it so fun for me was the fact that there wasn’t a truly defined trail. You just roamed this giant park-like setting.
 
 
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Down on the rocks. Up on the grass.
 
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I even stumbled across this cave. Didn’t go in more than a few feet as was a bit dark, dank, and scary.
 
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All of these photos came from that stretch of approximately 3 miles. Amazing!
 
There were still a few good views in the remaining 10 miles of the day.
 
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I hiked most of those last 10 miles with Luisa, a lovely and brilliant 19 year young lady from Germany. She had been hiking with her dad but he had to return home for work.  She was happy to not be by herself and I really enjoyed her company…plus she could keep pace.
 
She will be going to University in Scotland this fall to study Forensic Anthropology (think CSI). Did I tell you she is brilliant? A very stimulating conversation which I hope she enjoyed as much as I.
 
 
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This is Llanes where I will spend the night. Reserved a room in a hotel that is allegedly right on the beach.
 
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Score!!!
 
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Happy trails and buen Camino!
 
 
 

Day 17 Comillas to Peral 18 miles (269 miles total)

Woke up to a nice day. 
I toured Comillas but I apparently missed this casa.  Not that big of a town. How do you miss that?

It was a really nice, partly cloudy, 65ish kind of day. Good walking weather. 

Got my long board out to shred a few today. 

I think we should all chip in, buy this beach house, and just make it party central.  I’ll be in charge of the Budweiser. You guys figure out who’s in charge of all the rest of the minor details.  Who’s in?

Approaching the town of San Vicente de la Barquera. Appears to be another nice surf town. I’d only been walking for a couple hours but thinking about stopping here for the day. 

Went by a bunch of surf shops and surfers just before town. I was liking it. 

Just as the Camino reached town, it made a hard left and headed up the hill. I thought it would still go into town but was wrong. It wasn’t worth the effort to backtrack down the hill without knowing if I could get a room or what the town was really like. Plus, 6 miles?  Just not far enough to call it a day. 
These are some big horses. The guy is a really big dude. If the other horses don’t follow right behind the white one, he lets them know they are not being good via a little prodding with the stick. 

This guy must be extremely patient. I can’t imagine how long it takes to rake together one of those big bales!

One of my “things” is I smile and say “Hola” to everyone. Construction workers, joggers, farmers, everyone I pass. I get extra special enjoyment when it’s an elderly person who is alone.  I’ve gotten some unforgettable smiles in return.  You can do this at home yourself. Sometimes these people are alone and sad. Your hello may make their day. It’s easy and you’ve nothing to lose. Give it a shot.

Met a couple Danish guys today. One is young and the other, Thomas, is 53. He is fascinated by the AT and knows about as much as I do about it. Hoping he can one day hike it. 

Staying in a 3rd generation Pension. Think of it as a house where the entire upstairs has been converted to hotel-type rooms. Really quite nice for $15. 
Those cows are passing by the front door. BYOC (Bring Your Own Cow) night I guess. 

I offered $1000 for this old school cigarette machine. Fortunately they said no because I really didn’t think about how I would carry it. 

Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 16 Santillana del Mar to Comillas 15 miles (251 miles total)

My feet and knees were sore enough last night that I got up about 1AM and soaked in a hot bathtub for 20 minutes. Felt a bit better after that. 

They weren’t lying about the wind warning. Blew pretty hard all day. Guessing sustained winds near 30 mph and gusts to 40. 

I really like the Spanish architecture. They’re not afraid to accentuate with flowers which I like as well. 

Remember yesterday when I saw what I hoped were clouds up in the mountains. Well, they’re not clouds. 

Llamas…or are they alpacas…or is it the same thing?

Heading back to the coast. This wind is howling. Going into the wind, my hat tries to blow off but string holds it on…and darn near chokes me. 

In most of the towns, the Camino goes by or near a church. This is in Cóbreces. One of the standouts from my perspective. 

Kris, I say we get something like this to tow around the country!  Looks like something the Clampett’s should have had.  Jay Reidenbach, think we can just park it in Plantation?

The sea is very angry today. 

That really is snow and it keeps getting closer!  Been walking towards it for 2 days. 

That is Comillas in distance. It is an older beach town (cobblestone streets).

Antoni Gaudi is my favorite architect. Well, right after Bernie and Renae Wenzig.  These pics are from El Capricho, one of his first works of importance (1883-1885). 

Kris and I toured a few of his buildings in Barcelona last spring. He died in 1926 at the age of 74. He was so far ahead of his time that I’m not sure his time has come yet. Well, maybe the 1960’s!!
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 15 Santander to Santillana Del Mar 26 miles (236 miles total)

Another really nice day mid-70’s and mostly sunny. 
It took a long time to get out of Santander. I was walking against the flow of people walking to work and I felt a bit like a pinball sometimes. 
These clouds scared me a bit at first. Looked like snow out on the mountain tops. 

I have no clue what the name of this river is but it was a major pain in my butt today. See those houses across the river?  I would walk on the other side of them 2 hours (and 6 miles) later. Frustrating!

When you walk by yourself for 8 straight hours with no music, podcast, etc., you have lots of conversations with yourself and sometimes animals. I really tried to encourage these sheep to take a short break from eating and enjoy the view. They did not respond which I guess is fortunate.

Got just little teaser views of ocean this afternoon. 

Every once in a while the towns and the setting are so scenic it almost looks fake. 

26 miles is a loong way. I don’t care what the terrain is like. After 20 miles my legs are pretty dead, my mind is pretty shot, and I’m pretty much staggering down the Camino. A bit scary when you’re walking down a road. 

After 8 hours of walking, I finally made it to Santillana del Mar. It’s billed as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain. Many movies are filmed here and it is filled with tourists. 

It seems to be a very old city but I had a difficult time finding a place to stay and the cobblestone streets hurt my feet so I wasn’t a huge fan. Could also have something to do with the fact that I was dead tired when I got there. 

Wind warning apparently in effect for tomorrow AM. Fortunately I plan on only 14 miles to Comillas which is a beach town known for caves, waves, and Gaudi. Sounds cool. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 14 Somo to Santander 4 miles (210 miles total)

Today was a “nero” day. As in nearly zero miles. 
It was raining, windy, and cold in the morning. If you haven’t figured it out yet, I’m a fair weather hiker! 
I basically walked out of Somo to a ferry stop, took the ferry across the bay to Santander and walked a ways through the city. 

The temperature today was in the mid-50’s. My planning for this trek did not factor these type of temps in. 
As I was killing time I decided to check out the latitude here and discovered it is basically the same as Toronto, Canada. Add in the fact that we’re next to a cold ocean and it starts to make sense. Probably should have looked into that a month ago. I would have brought a pair of long pants along!
Santander is a fairly big city with some interesting architecture. This is the Banco de Santander building. I found that interesting because, at one point, I owned some stock in that. Can’t remember how that worked out so that means probably not very good.

The Camino goes right down “Main Street”. 

By late afternoon, the wind was still blowing but sky was clearing up. Today was first time I recalled any real wind. 
This picture looks back across the bay to the cliffs we walked along yesterday.

This whole latitude discovery helps explain another thing. Sun doesn’t set here until about 10PM
I thought about stopping in here and buying myself a fiddle but all they sell is clothes. Guess I could have gotten a pair of pants. 

I’ve covered 210 miles in 2 weeks. I hoped to do 100 miles/week so pretty much on pace.  I know now that I can really do 100 miles in 5 days and take 2 days off so I’ve got that going for me…which is nice. 
There is a path called the Camino Primitivo that splits off from the Camino del Norte somewhere up ahead. It sounds much more physically challenging. I’ve really done zero research on it as I just heard someone talk about it last night but my curiosity is peaked. 
The Camino del Norte eventually turns inland. If the Primitivo doesn’t force me to miss too much beach scenery, I may take it. Something to think about. 
Tomorrow’s weather sounds nice so I’ll be getting a move on in the morning. 
Happy trails and buen Camino!

Day 13 Noja to Somo 18 miles (206 miles total)

Thought I was going to be in for some rain today as I left Noja. 

The first 12 miles or so today was up and over some hills. Ended up not raining. I was happy about that but guessing the farmers not so much. Some of the fields look pretty dry. 
This corn won’t be knee high by the 4th of July!
John Deere green. She thinks his tractor’s sexy. 
If you don’t get it, you need a little country music in your life. 

I’ve seen thousands of this type of palm tree in my days. Never seen one with geraniums growing up the trunk. Love this look. 

And then for the last 5 or 6 miles we are back to the beach. That just doesn’t get old!

The Camino goes right along the top of these cliffs. 

Sometimes it’s good to take a look back and see where you came from. 

Sometimes it’s good to take a look back and see where you came from. 

Sometimes it’s good to take a look back and see where you came from. 

Our destination is that long stretch of sandy beach ahead and the surf town of Somo. 

Spent some time with a couple salty locals.

Happy trails and buen Camino!