August 15

Day 138 Mt Garfield Tentsite to No Pond Tentsite (15.5 miles) 1842.1 miles total

Long day but got myself 8.7 miles from Mitzpah Spring Hut. Hope to roll in there about 2PM tomorrow as a guest!

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It was a short hike to Galehead Hut. Not as spacious as previous Hut. They did have soup (more like broth) and baked goods (burnt) and it was nice to sit and rest a bit.

This is my artistic impression of Hut. Retro Western saloon look with backpacks up front instead of horses.

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They do have a pretty nice view from that front porch.

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Scaled South Twin Mtn (4902′). You can see some relatively flat land in this direction.

 

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Of course, I’m heading in this direction!

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The muck from bog fall has pretty much worn into shirt. Have been able to rinse off a bit at Huts.

Below is an example of boggy muck. No boardwalk where I fell. Just imagine rocks that you hop/step from one to the next. Closest crap is like quicksand that is about 8″ deep. After that it’s a little more liquid and a couple inches deeper.

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Stopped at Zealand Falls Hut later (4PM) in day. They were very busy with guests checking in, including about 30 Boy Scouts. Asked Croo if I could pay to fill one of my liter water bottles with lemonade. “Sure. Just leave what you think it’s worth in box.” Guessing to normal person would be worth about $5. To me, at that moment, about $20. I left $5.

 

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5 miles from Hut to Ethan Pond Campsite where hoping to tent. First stretch in Whites where you could move relatively quickly.

Made it in less than 2 hours only to find all tentsites taken. They have a caretaker here and charge $8 per person to tent. I’ve just hiked 15+ miles through Whites (plus 1/4 to campsite) and I’m not happy! Caretaker told me about spot less than half mile up trail. Thus, I end up at No Pond Tentsite. Good, level spot at least.

Excited to spend tomorrow night at Mitzpah Spring Hut. Just have to cross Mt Webster and Mt Jackson to get there.

Happy trails!

August 14

Day 137 Lonesome Tentsite to Mt Garfield Tentsite (13.3 miles) 1826.6 miles total

Hard but really amazing day of hiking.

Stopped by Lonesome Lake Hut about 9AM. Talk about exceeding expectations. Amazing.

This is right on trail. Front door to kitchen/dining room. There were also 2 bunkhouses.

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Below is dining area. During day they sell baked goods ($2), coffee, lemonade ($1) to hikers.

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This is kitchen area. Hikers can also get water and there’s a bathroom. They also have bowls of soup for sale. I was a bit early for that.

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I’ll be a guest at Mitzpah Spring Hut on Wed. Member of the Croo (full-time employee at Hut) told me a thru-hiker who stays as a guest has the ultimate time. “Get there early.”

This is Lonesome Lake. 50 yds from Hut with a dock and seating area. 2 older guys sitting there watching a family of ducks swim by. One guy says to other “I wonder what the lifespan of a duck is.” From behind I said “Where I come from it’s until they get shot.” These guys did not think funny! Gave me dirty stares. I thought it was hilarious!

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The other good thing that happened at Hut is another Croo member told me that I’m through the worst of Whites. “There’s some as bad but nothing worse.” That put a little spring in my step!

This is from Little Haystack Mtn looking up to Mt Lincoln. Yeah, we’re going there.

 

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Mt Lincoln looking up to Mt Lafayette. Going there too.

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These last 3 peaks are all above tree line. Views are spectacular.

This is looking back to Lonesome Lake. 9.5 miles of tough but rewarding hiking.

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This is view from Mt Garfield (tenting 20 yds from there) back at Mt Lafayette.

Tomorrow will cross South Twin Mtn (4902′) and Mt Guyot (4580′). Also will go by 2 Huts!

Happy trails!

August 13

Day 136 Kinsman Notch to Lonesome Tentsite (12.9 miles) 1813.3 miles total

I hiked for 8.5 hours today. Normally I would make close to 20 miles in that time. This is very difficult hiking. Long, steep, rocky, boggy ups and downs.

This view is from Mt Wolf (3478′).

Trail in VT and NH is permanently muddy in spots. Lots of rock hopping through puddles, mud, and now bogs (muddy puddles).

Only fell twice today. No injuries, but left thigh still a bit sore. One fall was the garden variety slip on a wet rock and land on my butt. The other would have been hysterical if I’d have been watching happen to someone else.

I was hopping rock to rock through a large, boggy area. The soupy muck was about 6″ deep. Made a big hop and teetered on the next rock for quite a bit trying to catch my balance. Finally realized…I’m going down! Splash! Now covered in mud on left side of body. Left arm, shirt, shorts, socks, even beard…wet mud. Not good when 6 more days to next town and shower/laundry!

Didn’t come across any good streams or ponds to rinse off in so I just let the mud dry and brushed off as much as I could.


These pics are from South Kinsman Mtn (4358′). Also crossed North Kinsman Mtn (4293′). 360 degree view of mountain after mountain.


The mud crash was relatively early in day. If I could make 16.3 miles today would hit a road and possibly I could get to town for shower. Soon realized that probably wasn’t happening.


Ended up tenting just short of Lonesome Lake Hut. You have to be at a Hut at about 3PM to get a work for stay. Too late for that.


Tomorrow will go over Little Haystack Mtn (4800′), Mt Lincoln (5089′), Mt Lafayette (5263′), and Mt Garfield (4458′). Hoping to make 13.7 miles


Happy trails!

August 12

Day 135 Kinsman Notch. Zero day 1800.4 miles total

Turns out fall that tweaked knee actually hurt thigh. Had slipped with right foot which shot straight ahead. Landed sitting on heel of left foot with knee pointed straight ahead.

First fall early in hike was exact same thing. Apparently this one stretched my quad more than it’s designed for. Lower thigh is sore but seems better. Knee OK.

Didn’t miss hiking through clouds on tops of mountains today.

Zero day gave me some time to plan out hike through Whites. Next town, Gorham, NH is 91 miles away. Probably take a week.

Have a reservation at Mitzpah Spring Hut (50 miles) for Wednesday night. The Appalachian Mountains Club operates a series of Huts (about 10 of them) through the Whites. For $130 you get a bank, dinner, and breakfast. Hold about 100 people and are usually booked.

Mitzpah Spring Hut is 6 miles before Mt Washington so at least I’ll eat good before tackling the beast of the northeast!

The Huts offer work for stay for thru-hikers. You wash dishes (or some other chore) for a couple hours and get leftovers from guest dining and a space to sleep on dining room floor. Can’t mingle with guests but it’s free. Take 2 or 3 hikers per day at each Hut. I may try it just so I can say I did.

Happy trails!

August 11

Day 134 NH 25 to Kinsman Notch (9.3 miles) 1800.4 miles total
Strong thunderstorm last night. Rained pretty hard for a bit.

Walking toward the light.


Wicked hard climb to top of Mt Mooslauke. As hard to climb as spell! 3800 ft up in 5.5 miles. That’s climbing. There was no down…all up.

First above tree line action.


Got a bit cool and windy on top.

Dartmouth Outdoor Club maintains this section of trail. They win the prize for nicest signs.


Once again wishing I knew what peaks I”m looking at. There should be an app for that!


The descent was 2500 ft in 3.8 miles. I go almost as fast uphill as down because I don’t fall (so far) going up.


This down was nasty. Very wet and rocky. Not a good combo. Slipped and fell on my butt 6 times. Tweaked my left knee and bruised my ego. Discovering my slow gear doesn’t work well.

Hiked down beside water I pic below. Started as a trickle. Waterfall most of way down. Ended up as river at bottom.


Finally made it down alive. Got picked up very quickly by Scott and Leslie, a really nice couple from coastal Maine up doing some hiking.

Drove me right to hotel. While getting my stuff out, I realized didn’t have my walking stick. I get comments daily on the stick. Kind of my identity. Just today guy said he’d heard about hiker with nice stick…me!

Scott asked how long I’d had stick. Told him every mile. “Get in and let’s go get it”. Drove 5 miles back up Mtn. Stick was sitting against post, right where I had set it. Thanks so much, Scott and Leslie!

Not sure about tomorrow. Knee is pretty sore right now. Stiffened up as evening went on. Have I told you falling sucks?!!

Happy trails!

August 10

Day 133 Mt Cube Tentsite to NH 25 (14.4 miles)) 1791.1 miles total

400 miles to go! If all goes well I hope to summit Katahdin September 7…just in time for NFL opening night! 4 weeks…100 miles/week.

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Was a bit foggy down below this AM. I’m at 2900 ft.

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About half way through today’s hike I came across a gravel road. Pickup parked there with a bunch of water and juice in plastic jugs. Looks like trail magic but no one around. I loitered to no avail.

Less than 1/4 mile up trail I come across…The Omelet Man. He’s got a tarped in kitchen going on.

He had read a book about the trail. Was fascinated by trail magic concept. Retired last year. Now is out here every day during hiking season from 8AM until 7 or 8PM.

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He has water, juice, cookies, candy, and makes omelets. Lots of them! Ham, onion, green pepper and however many eggs you want. I had 3. Another guy had 6!

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He even has a banana tree!

 

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Spending night in my tent at Hikers Welcome Hostel about 1/4 mile from trail. They have bunk rooms, shower, privy, and a small, honor system snacks and soda area.

Met a trail legend. Grey Beard is trying to become oldest thru-hiker at 82. Cool guy. Talked with him for a while. 37 years US Navy.

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Tomorrow is 9 miles to North Woodstock. It’s only 9 miles but a tough 9 miles. Up one side and down the other of a big mountain.

Happy trails!

 

August 9

Day 132 Dead Tired Tentsite to Mt Cube Tentsite (13.5 miles) 1776.7 miles total

I think Earth is giving me a preview of the Whites. There was no more hiking on top of ridge lines. You go up the mountain, down the mountain, and up the next.

Physically tough but the views are very rewarding. This is the “precipitous drop-off” I stopped short of yesterday.

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Peak behind me is Smarts Mountain. Heading there next.

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I had lunch on a ledge with incredible views. Spent an hour there. Buena vista!

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Possibility of rain this afternoon. Hope it blows over.

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Got to the top of Smarts Mtn about 2:40. There is a Fire Wardens cabin that hikes can stay in. Also supposed to be a spring 0.2 miles in front.

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I say supposed to be a spring. When I got to cabin a young couple who had passed by while I was on lunch break were there. They had walked down to spring and not flowing. Just a muddy puddle.

Not good. Couple had just drank last of their water and I had about 10 oz left. An expected and needed water source is dry. Hasn’t happened to me since early GA.

Guidebook says a brook 4 miles down. Will take a bit more than an hour and half. Made it there with no water left. Couple arrived shortly after. Very happy to see clean, flowing water. Only second time I’ve filled from non-spring source. Fingers crossed.

Few sprinkles late in day but anything heavy missed here.

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Got an initial plan together to tackle Whites. Will take 6 or 7 days if weather good.

Have about 25 miles to North Woodstock, NH. That is start of Whites. Should get there early Friday. Rest, resupply, laundry. Start Whites on Saturday.

Happy trails!

August 8

Day 131 Hanover, NH to Dead Tired Tentsite (15.5 miles) 1763.2 miles total

Carol, thanks for the use of your sherpa, I mean husband, for the past several days. Good to catch up, drink some beers, have a few laughs, and knock out some miles with a friend of more than 50 years. Thanks, Skaare! Now about that splitting out wide thing…

Sherpa and I parted ways shortly after 10AM. Had to wait for a sporting goods store to open in Hanover (cool town). Needed new sock liners (thin sock under wool sock). Original 2 pairs had holes in toes. Only lasted 1750 miles!

Dartmouth may be smarter than Northern State University but I’m pretty sure we draw a bigger crowd for football games.

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Hitched a ride into Etna, NH for lunch. Small town 0.8 miles from trail. General Store with a deli. Great sandwiches, etc.

Had lunch with Subway. He is Irish and a retired police officer from Stoney Brook, NY. I’ve seen him on and off for a couple weeks. Spent more than an hour chatting. Nice guy. We both have noticed significantly fewer “old guys” since New England.

Out of Etna is a climb up to Moose Mtn.

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After Moose Mtn was a steep climb to Holts Ledge. I stopped to tent shortly before top. I was beat and guide book mentioned “precipitous drop-off” at peak. Thought it prudent to not be dead tired while going over!

Finding a flat spot to tent on a steep part of a mountain is nearly impossible. This is my most uneven spot yet!

Hoping to get started into Whites on Friday. Right now, weather to then sounds good.

Happy trails!

August 7

Day 130 Woodstock Stage Rd to Hanover, NH (21.0 miles) 1747.7 miles total

Crossed The Connecticut River into NH today.  Just NH and ME left to go!

Looking back at Suicide Six Ski Area.  If you want the 411 on name, read Dick Mallery’s comment yesterday.  Thanks, Dick!

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Was thinking today would be nice, easy stroll. Not…until last 2.5 miles. That was on streets and roads through Norwich, VT and into Hanover, NH.

One of first houses entering Norwich had a cooler by road marked “Trail Magic”. Cooler seemed very light so I assumed empty this late in day. Didn’t even open but lady out stacking firewood at house said there should be watermelon. There was. Refreshing treat!

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Hanover, NH is home of Dartmouth University. Craving a soda after 21 miles so asked a young lady near campus where closest convenience store is. She said I could go into student union and get a soda. I asked if a homeless looking guy could just walk in. She chuckled and said “Yes, we’re non-judgmental.” I walked 2 blocks to Circle K instead. Had a Mountain Dew while waiting for Sherpa to pick me up.

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Sherpa did a little hiking himself today. He drove an hour and half to Mt Stratton, VT’s highest point. He’s trying to get to as many state high points as can so figured to knock off while here.

He was able to drive within 1.5 miles of top. From there, pretty tough walk to top and back. His knees were barking and was walking like me when he picked me up!

Sherpa leaves tomorrow so back to reality. About 50 miles to White Mountains where things really get real.

Happy trails!

August 6

Day 129 River Rd to Woodstock Stage Rd (20.3 miles) 1726.7 miles total

I’ve come across 2 places where there were metal rungs anchored in the rocks to facilitate climbing. Today was the first time there was a ladder. I was heading down. Not sure how that would have worked if ladder not there.


Got temporarily disoriented for a bit today. Long, complicated story but I walked an extra half mile or so. Hate when that happens!

Hiked up and over hill below. Very close to a small ski area called Suicide Six. Bit of a strange name.


Pretty nice to come out of woods at end of hike and have Sherpa there with ice cold sodas and a ride. Easy to get spoiled.

Hoping to reach NH, or pretty darn close, tomorrow. Working on getting myself psyched up for White Mountains. Will be there in a few days.

Happy trails!