August 18

Day 141 Osgood Tentsite to Pinkham Notch (4.7 miles) 1870.4 miles total

Started raining early this AM. Cold, wet hike down to Pinkham Notch. Saw a couple SOBO’s. Felt sorry for them as they were heading up into worse weather.

Was able to get a ride from there into Gorham with several other wet hikers. Was planning on getting to Gorham on Saturday…just from 21 miles further up trail. Good news is hotel and much needed shower and laundry. Finally rid of muck from bog fall.

Rain off and on tomorrow. Will be zeroing. Weather sounds good for Sunday and Monday.

Happy trails!

August 17

Day 140 Mitzpah Spring Hut to Osgood Tentsite (14.9 miles) 1865.7 miles total

The Hut had about 60 guests last night. Slept in bunk room with 7 others. Thankfully only one fairly mild snorer. My air mattress in tent is more comfortable than wooden bunk.

Had a great breakfast: oatmeal, coffee cake, eggs, bacon, and hot chocolate. Gorged once again.

Good thing I was well fed because today’s hike was a physical challenge.

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Had to cross the Presidential Range above tree line for 12 miles. That means open to the elements and no tenting (fragile ecosystem and dangerous). No choice but to go 15 miles.

Crossed Mt Pierce (4312″) and Mt Franklin (5014′) and wind was howling. Had to be close to 40 miles sustained and cold. Put gloves on for just second time of entire trip.

Also skirted summits of Mt Eisenhower and Mt Madison in the 5 miles to Lake of Clouds Hut. Stopped in there for some hot chocolate and to warm up.

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1.6 miles and 1150′ elevation to Mt Washington (6288′). That wouldn’t be bad on a calm, sunny day. Today we are in clouds and cold wind will get worse.

As you leave Hut there is a sign warning to stop if weather bad because of possibility of death.

It was an insane hike up. If wind was from side it would practically blow you off trail. Into it I just put my head down and leaned forward. With it was the craziest. Would go faster than I wanted over rocks. Couldn’t see top through clouds until I was right there.

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50 mph sustained winds with gusts to 70 and wind chill low 30’s at top. Plus it’s kind of drizzly because you’re in cloud.

They did have a snack bar (slice of pizza and bowl of chili). They also had a hiker lounge in the basement with some tables, electrical outlets, and bathrooms.

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Only 9 miles to go. Most above tree line and above 5000′.

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Passed Madison Spring Hut at 4:30. Only 3.1 miles to go and one big climb over Mt Madison (5366′).

This is looking North fro Mt Madison. I’m going north so should be going north into that flat expanse but nooo. We gotta go south so we can stay in mountains. Like to talk to the folks that devised that. You know they were laughing!

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Late in the day Mt Washington is still in clouds. If you zoom in on left third of pic you may see a road. You can take a cog train to top or drive. People buy “My car made it up Mt Washington bumper stickers”. I say try walking!

 

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Hoping to make it to Gorham. NH in 2 days. Really need to do laundry and resupply. That will be a week since last!

Happy trails!

 

August 16

Day 139 No Pond Tentsite to Mitzpah Spring Hut (8.7 miles) 1850.8 miles total
That was a hard 8.7 miles.

Walked along Webster Cliffs. Great views but wind was 40mph+.


I usually don’t get passed by too many people in a day. Young day hikers were flying by me. Probably passed by 20!


There was a lot of rock climbing today. Had to toss stick up ahead couple times because needed both hands. Lots of stretches like below and then, of course, you have to go down similar. I’ve learned to swallow my pride and scoot down on my butt at some points.


That little dot in center of pic is the Hut. Finally got there at 2:30.


Ran into Alexander (Big Foot) who took pic of family on day 1. Haven’t seen him since Hot Springs, NC. Long time ago!

View of dining area and kitchen behind.


Great dinner: bean soup, bread, salad, pulled pork, baked broccoli, and blueberry bars for dessert. I pigged out.


Weather tomorrow is supposed to be good. Almost 6 miles to Mt Washington. Hope to be there by noon. Hoping to make 15 miles total.

Happy trails!

August 15

Day 138 Mt Garfield Tentsite to No Pond Tentsite (15.5 miles) 1842.1 miles total

Long day but got myself 8.7 miles from Mitzpah Spring Hut. Hope to roll in there about 2PM tomorrow as a guest!

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It was a short hike to Galehead Hut. Not as spacious as previous Hut. They did have soup (more like broth) and baked goods (burnt) and it was nice to sit and rest a bit.

This is my artistic impression of Hut. Retro Western saloon look with backpacks up front instead of horses.

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They do have a pretty nice view from that front porch.

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Scaled South Twin Mtn (4902′). You can see some relatively flat land in this direction.

 

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Of course, I’m heading in this direction!

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The muck from bog fall has pretty much worn into shirt. Have been able to rinse off a bit at Huts.

Below is an example of boggy muck. No boardwalk where I fell. Just imagine rocks that you hop/step from one to the next. Closest crap is like quicksand that is about 8″ deep. After that it’s a little more liquid and a couple inches deeper.

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Stopped at Zealand Falls Hut later (4PM) in day. They were very busy with guests checking in, including about 30 Boy Scouts. Asked Croo if I could pay to fill one of my liter water bottles with lemonade. “Sure. Just leave what you think it’s worth in box.” Guessing to normal person would be worth about $5. To me, at that moment, about $20. I left $5.

 

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5 miles from Hut to Ethan Pond Campsite where hoping to tent. First stretch in Whites where you could move relatively quickly.

Made it in less than 2 hours only to find all tentsites taken. They have a caretaker here and charge $8 per person to tent. I’ve just hiked 15+ miles through Whites (plus 1/4 to campsite) and I’m not happy! Caretaker told me about spot less than half mile up trail. Thus, I end up at No Pond Tentsite. Good, level spot at least.

Excited to spend tomorrow night at Mitzpah Spring Hut. Just have to cross Mt Webster and Mt Jackson to get there.

Happy trails!

August 14

Day 137 Lonesome Tentsite to Mt Garfield Tentsite (13.3 miles) 1826.6 miles total

Hard but really amazing day of hiking.

Stopped by Lonesome Lake Hut about 9AM. Talk about exceeding expectations. Amazing.

This is right on trail. Front door to kitchen/dining room. There were also 2 bunkhouses.

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Below is dining area. During day they sell baked goods ($2), coffee, lemonade ($1) to hikers.

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This is kitchen area. Hikers can also get water and there’s a bathroom. They also have bowls of soup for sale. I was a bit early for that.

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I’ll be a guest at Mitzpah Spring Hut on Wed. Member of the Croo (full-time employee at Hut) told me a thru-hiker who stays as a guest has the ultimate time. “Get there early.”

This is Lonesome Lake. 50 yds from Hut with a dock and seating area. 2 older guys sitting there watching a family of ducks swim by. One guy says to other “I wonder what the lifespan of a duck is.” From behind I said “Where I come from it’s until they get shot.” These guys did not think funny! Gave me dirty stares. I thought it was hilarious!

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The other good thing that happened at Hut is another Croo member told me that I’m through the worst of Whites. “There’s some as bad but nothing worse.” That put a little spring in my step!

This is from Little Haystack Mtn looking up to Mt Lincoln. Yeah, we’re going there.

 

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Mt Lincoln looking up to Mt Lafayette. Going there too.

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These last 3 peaks are all above tree line. Views are spectacular.

This is looking back to Lonesome Lake. 9.5 miles of tough but rewarding hiking.

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This is view from Mt Garfield (tenting 20 yds from there) back at Mt Lafayette.

Tomorrow will cross South Twin Mtn (4902′) and Mt Guyot (4580′). Also will go by 2 Huts!

Happy trails!

August 13

Day 136 Kinsman Notch to Lonesome Tentsite (12.9 miles) 1813.3 miles total

I hiked for 8.5 hours today. Normally I would make close to 20 miles in that time. This is very difficult hiking. Long, steep, rocky, boggy ups and downs.

This view is from Mt Wolf (3478′).

Trail in VT and NH is permanently muddy in spots. Lots of rock hopping through puddles, mud, and now bogs (muddy puddles).

Only fell twice today. No injuries, but left thigh still a bit sore. One fall was the garden variety slip on a wet rock and land on my butt. The other would have been hysterical if I’d have been watching happen to someone else.

I was hopping rock to rock through a large, boggy area. The soupy muck was about 6″ deep. Made a big hop and teetered on the next rock for quite a bit trying to catch my balance. Finally realized…I’m going down! Splash! Now covered in mud on left side of body. Left arm, shirt, shorts, socks, even beard…wet mud. Not good when 6 more days to next town and shower/laundry!

Didn’t come across any good streams or ponds to rinse off in so I just let the mud dry and brushed off as much as I could.


These pics are from South Kinsman Mtn (4358′). Also crossed North Kinsman Mtn (4293′). 360 degree view of mountain after mountain.


The mud crash was relatively early in day. If I could make 16.3 miles today would hit a road and possibly I could get to town for shower. Soon realized that probably wasn’t happening.


Ended up tenting just short of Lonesome Lake Hut. You have to be at a Hut at about 3PM to get a work for stay. Too late for that.


Tomorrow will go over Little Haystack Mtn (4800′), Mt Lincoln (5089′), Mt Lafayette (5263′), and Mt Garfield (4458′). Hoping to make 13.7 miles


Happy trails!

August 12

Day 135 Kinsman Notch. Zero day 1800.4 miles total

Turns out fall that tweaked knee actually hurt thigh. Had slipped with right foot which shot straight ahead. Landed sitting on heel of left foot with knee pointed straight ahead.

First fall early in hike was exact same thing. Apparently this one stretched my quad more than it’s designed for. Lower thigh is sore but seems better. Knee OK.

Didn’t miss hiking through clouds on tops of mountains today.

Zero day gave me some time to plan out hike through Whites. Next town, Gorham, NH is 91 miles away. Probably take a week.

Have a reservation at Mitzpah Spring Hut (50 miles) for Wednesday night. The Appalachian Mountains Club operates a series of Huts (about 10 of them) through the Whites. For $130 you get a bank, dinner, and breakfast. Hold about 100 people and are usually booked.

Mitzpah Spring Hut is 6 miles before Mt Washington so at least I’ll eat good before tackling the beast of the northeast!

The Huts offer work for stay for thru-hikers. You wash dishes (or some other chore) for a couple hours and get leftovers from guest dining and a space to sleep on dining room floor. Can’t mingle with guests but it’s free. Take 2 or 3 hikers per day at each Hut. I may try it just so I can say I did.

Happy trails!

August 11

Day 134 NH 25 to Kinsman Notch (9.3 miles) 1800.4 miles total
Strong thunderstorm last night. Rained pretty hard for a bit.

Walking toward the light.


Wicked hard climb to top of Mt Mooslauke. As hard to climb as spell! 3800 ft up in 5.5 miles. That’s climbing. There was no down…all up.

First above tree line action.


Got a bit cool and windy on top.

Dartmouth Outdoor Club maintains this section of trail. They win the prize for nicest signs.


Once again wishing I knew what peaks I”m looking at. There should be an app for that!


The descent was 2500 ft in 3.8 miles. I go almost as fast uphill as down because I don’t fall (so far) going up.


This down was nasty. Very wet and rocky. Not a good combo. Slipped and fell on my butt 6 times. Tweaked my left knee and bruised my ego. Discovering my slow gear doesn’t work well.

Hiked down beside water I pic below. Started as a trickle. Waterfall most of way down. Ended up as river at bottom.


Finally made it down alive. Got picked up very quickly by Scott and Leslie, a really nice couple from coastal Maine up doing some hiking.

Drove me right to hotel. While getting my stuff out, I realized didn’t have my walking stick. I get comments daily on the stick. Kind of my identity. Just today guy said he’d heard about hiker with nice stick…me!

Scott asked how long I’d had stick. Told him every mile. “Get in and let’s go get it”. Drove 5 miles back up Mtn. Stick was sitting against post, right where I had set it. Thanks so much, Scott and Leslie!

Not sure about tomorrow. Knee is pretty sore right now. Stiffened up as evening went on. Have I told you falling sucks?!!

Happy trails!

August 10

Day 133 Mt Cube Tentsite to NH 25 (14.4 miles)) 1791.1 miles total

400 miles to go! If all goes well I hope to summit Katahdin September 7…just in time for NFL opening night! 4 weeks…100 miles/week.

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Was a bit foggy down below this AM. I’m at 2900 ft.

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About half way through today’s hike I came across a gravel road. Pickup parked there with a bunch of water and juice in plastic jugs. Looks like trail magic but no one around. I loitered to no avail.

Less than 1/4 mile up trail I come across…The Omelet Man. He’s got a tarped in kitchen going on.

He had read a book about the trail. Was fascinated by trail magic concept. Retired last year. Now is out here every day during hiking season from 8AM until 7 or 8PM.

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He has water, juice, cookies, candy, and makes omelets. Lots of them! Ham, onion, green pepper and however many eggs you want. I had 3. Another guy had 6!

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He even has a banana tree!

 

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Spending night in my tent at Hikers Welcome Hostel about 1/4 mile from trail. They have bunk rooms, shower, privy, and a small, honor system snacks and soda area.

Met a trail legend. Grey Beard is trying to become oldest thru-hiker at 82. Cool guy. Talked with him for a while. 37 years US Navy.

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Tomorrow is 9 miles to North Woodstock. It’s only 9 miles but a tough 9 miles. Up one side and down the other of a big mountain.

Happy trails!

 

August 9

Day 132 Dead Tired Tentsite to Mt Cube Tentsite (13.5 miles) 1776.7 miles total

I think Earth is giving me a preview of the Whites. There was no more hiking on top of ridge lines. You go up the mountain, down the mountain, and up the next.

Physically tough but the views are very rewarding. This is the “precipitous drop-off” I stopped short of yesterday.

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Peak behind me is Smarts Mountain. Heading there next.

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I had lunch on a ledge with incredible views. Spent an hour there. Buena vista!

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Possibility of rain this afternoon. Hope it blows over.

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Got to the top of Smarts Mtn about 2:40. There is a Fire Wardens cabin that hikes can stay in. Also supposed to be a spring 0.2 miles in front.

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I say supposed to be a spring. When I got to cabin a young couple who had passed by while I was on lunch break were there. They had walked down to spring and not flowing. Just a muddy puddle.

Not good. Couple had just drank last of their water and I had about 10 oz left. An expected and needed water source is dry. Hasn’t happened to me since early GA.

Guidebook says a brook 4 miles down. Will take a bit more than an hour and half. Made it there with no water left. Couple arrived shortly after. Very happy to see clean, flowing water. Only second time I’ve filled from non-spring source. Fingers crossed.

Few sprinkles late in day but anything heavy missed here.

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Got an initial plan together to tackle Whites. Will take 6 or 7 days if weather good.

Have about 25 miles to North Woodstock, NH. That is start of Whites. Should get there early Friday. Rest, resupply, laundry. Start Whites on Saturday.

Happy trails!